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Old 05-07-2012   #1
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Default Finally!

In the thread "Almost", I described my tribulations trying to get a working 4x5 monorail camera at a price I could afford. Now the last step has been taken.



There you see the new bellows I ordered from an eBay seller in Shanghai. It arrived today, and I put the mounting plates from the old bellows on it. I posted a bit about that on my blog at http://graywolfphoto.com/journal/201...45g-bellows-3/

Tomorrow, I hope to get out and actually use the camera.











final

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Old 05-13-2012   #2
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The camera actually being used.



What is being tested there, beside that the flash sync actually works, is how the press camera lens will do for movements. I am photographing the mandolin with 35mm rise and 10mm of shift set in to position the mandolin just where I want it on the negative. The light colored wall will cearly show any fall off, hopefully.

More about what I was doing is on my blog at http://graywolfphoto.com/journal/201...toyo-view-45g/
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Old 05-14-2012   #3
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Congratulations of getting your bellows and camera working. Depending on the lens, most press camera lenses don't produce a very large image circle because the movemenst on a press camera are limited.

The longer the bellows draw, which is to say the closer the focus, the larger the image circle is.
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Old 05-14-2012   #4
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Well, at the moment the 135mm Optar is the only lens I have, so it has to make do. But in some tests I can get about 35mm of rise/shift and that is about all the bellows will give with that lens anyway. Sure I can squeeze abit more but I have to have everything locked up very tightly or the bellows will pull it out of adjustment. Some film is in the tank as I write this. I will be interested to find out just how good or bad the lens did with 35mm of rise dialed in.
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Old 05-15-2012   #5
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Tom- The 135mm Optar is meant for 4x5 press cameras and has a fairly limited circle of coverage. If you move the front standard upward or sideways, vignetting will occur pretty quick. If you can get you hands on a 240mm Schneider Symar or a Rodenstock 240mm model you will gain a great deal of coverage and sharpness. Fugi large format lenses are good too. There are a bunch of theses lenses on the used market.

If you don't have a bi-pole flash cord for your lens they are available form Paramount flash cords. On that Toyo camera- be gentle with those locking sleeves- too much pressure or hard twisting can strip out the locking mechanism. You are talking to "Edward Wrench-Hands" here- my repair guy keeps yelling at me to be kinder to all kinds of locking mechanisms on all my cameras, stands and tripods.

Nice camera- CONGRATULATIONS!

Ed
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Old 05-15-2012   #6
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Someone already did about as much damage by over tightening things as they could, Ed. So I know all about those problems, and am trying to fix them one by one. I have to sqeeze the pinons against the rack to use the rise on the back.

First films are processed and scanned. A couple of new things I tried in agitation and rinse methods did not work out too well. No sign of light leaks with the new bellows. I do not see much in the way of vignetting using rise, shift and swing to near the limits of the bellows. Here is a link to the blog article I wrote about it .

http://graywolfphoto.com/journal/201...view-45g-test/

Ed will be glad to know that I have a very cheap Schneider 210/5.6 Convertable Symmar coming. At least I do if they don't sell it in the Brick & Morter store before they get around to shipping it. Nifty thing with that lens, it and the 135 gives me approximately the equivalent of a 35mm, 50mm, and 90mm on a 35mm camera. Since those are my most used lenses (actually a 100mm instead of a 90) that will make the camera quite usable. I may actually have to order more film.
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Old 05-16-2012   #7
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Well, the very cheap Symmar turns out to be a junk lens, fungus between the cemented rear elements. Anybody want to buy a #1 Synchro-Compur shutter needing a CLA? Maybe it is time for me to learn how to re-cement lenses. Other than that it is real pretty.

And, I did not even buy it off eBay.
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Old 05-20-2012   #8
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Tom, did you try shooting with it, you may be very surprised.
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Old 05-25-2012   #9
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Well, I got another rear standard for the camera, that means I now have a fully functional camera (except for one bad level). I now have more than I wanted to spend in it, but I think that $270 (what I now have in it) for a Toyo-View 45G in excellent condition with a new bellows is reasonable.

Next step appears to be to take that rear cell on the Symmar apart and see what is actually going on with that fungus in there. Maybe I will get lucky and it won't be between the cemented pair and I will be able to clean it out.
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Old 05-25-2012   #10
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Hey TOM!

Pick up a bottle of Mold Control(tm.) a cleaner that removes mold. I was amazed- I had some black mold in the studio which is hard to remove and toxic- one spray and it just came off on a paper towel with no rubbing or scrubbing. Then I put a tin bit on a Q-tip and it cleaned up all the mold on an old projection lens. I patted the area dry with lens tissue and the used some regular lens cleaning solution and carefull cleaned the entire lens- it looks like new! Use very little as a test! I once used the ether on another moldy lens and it did a good job as well. If nothing else works, you may have the world's best soft focus lens.

Good luck- Ed


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