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Old 07-28-2011   #31
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Default Re: Mamiya RB67 just purchased.

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If you can load that 120 rollfilm on the stainless steel reel effortlessly in the dark then you will be the MAN!!! I always sucked at doing that and started using these plastic reels that you twisted back and forth and it self loaded via a ball bearing.
120 reels are easy to load. It's the longer 220 rolls of film that always gave me trouble. Still, there's a technique to it that's easy to learn.
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Old 07-28-2011   #32
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120 reels are easy to load. It's the longer 220 rolls of film that always gave me trouble. Still, there's a technique to it that's easy to learn.
I never mastered it Brooks. I'd always end up with one or two frames that got crimped.

I never used my RB except for studio shooting. Back then all I had was an old Novatron kit (cause I'm a rank amateur). I never tried to expand or contract my negatives because I always used flash lighting.

I once bought an old Graflex 4 x 5 and used spot metering for it. (Somewhere I have an old Pentax Spotmeter). I usually metered the darkest thing I wanted texture in and made that Zone III. Then I would meter the brightest thing I wanted detail and texture in. If it was more than five stops than Zone III, then I'd contract the negative during development. (I exposed for Zone V. I guess that was the right way to do it. I usually got good results regardless.)
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Old 07-28-2011   #33
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The technique to rolling film onto a processing reel is to attach the end of the roll to the clip in the center of the reel, being careful to center the film in the reel as much as possible. Then, with the reel resting like a wheel on the table surface, push a straight segment of the film, slightly cupped by your right hand, towards the reel. As the reel rolls along the table surface like a wheel, the film will wind onto the reel.

Your Zone System technique is correct except that you expose the shadow area where you want texture for 2 stops lower than the meter reading (Zone III instead of V) If the textured highlights are more than 5 stops brighter then less development is indicated for a compaction. If the highlights are less than 5 stops from the shadow reading then more development is needed for an expansion.

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Originally Posted by k9ofkaos View Post
I never mastered it Brooks. I'd always end up with one or two frames that got crimped.

I never used my RB except for studio shooting. Back then all I had was an old Novatron kit (cause I'm a rank amateur). I never tried to expand or contract my negatives because I always used flash lighting.

I once bought an old Graflex 4 x 5 and used spot metering for it. (Somewhere I have an old Pentax Spotmeter). I usually metered the darkest thing I wanted texture in and made that Zone III. Then I would meter the brightest thing I wanted detail and texture in. If it was more than five stops than Zone III, then I'd contract the negative during development. (I exposed for Zone V. I guess that was the right way to do it. I usually got good results regardless.)
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Old 07-29-2011   #34
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Hey Brooks! You let Fran off cheap! Why not have him trade is RB in for an 8x10 view camera and an 8x10 horizontal enlarger that operates on tracks and projects the images on the wall so he can become a reincarnation of Ansil Adams- I mean why go half way once he masters the zone system. Then he can have his spot meter re-calibrated to K settings and go the whole 9 yards.

Then he can process his film in Pyro and knock off some platinum prints developed in Amidol!

Just kidding! Some TXP120 or T-Max processed in D-76 or HC110 Dil.B should do the trick. Precise temperature control, no martini-shaker adgitation and exact timing will yield negs of extremely high quality. I find that cutting down on wet time and not over-immersing the film in the clearing agent cuts down on any reticulation and makes for tight grain and great accordance. I used to use the perma wash for stop bath rather than the recommended acetic acid formulia and totally eliminate the possibility of pin holes.

Ah- NOSTALGIA! Ed
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Old 07-29-2011   #35
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Default Re: Mamiya RB67 just purchased.

Oh man....
you guys aren't just making these words up to make me feel stupid are you?

Reticulation? Accordance?
Alright, now I gotta go do some reading.
SOunds like fun though!

But just in case I'm gonna look into that B&H mailer thingy....
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Old 07-29-2011   #36
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Oh man....
you guys aren't just making these words up to make me feel stupid are you?

Reticulation? Accordance?
Alright, now I gotta go do some reading.
SOunds like fun though!

But just in case I'm gonna look into that B&H mailer thingy....
reciprocity failure
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Old 07-29-2011   #37
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Woohooo!
Alright, here they are first ever for me with film. Got them developed at the local camera store after begging them just to develop the film $5.50 for 10 expos.
Scanned them myself, lot to learn about color corection for film etc and this was relatively low res scan don't know if my focus was off-gotta check.

It's cool and I think i'm in love all over again with photography...and the model ain't too shabby either ......


Whatcha think? Suggestions?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg T 1st mamiya.jpg (102.9 KB, 127 views)
File Type: jpg T 1st mamiya conv.jpg (76.6 KB, 127 views)
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Old 07-31-2011   #38
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I like the color one Fran, sooc? How did you meter for this shot?
I will be taking in two rolls this week because of you lol. One color (160vc) and b/w (delta pro 50) . Just hope I did not use one of my backs that has a leak that I forgot to label......
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Old 08-01-2011   #39
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Dang my friend!!! Your model rocks the 6 x 7 world too!!
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Old 08-02-2011   #40
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Default Re: Mamiya RB67 just purchased.

Fran this is really fun watching this thread. I'm diggin the film and your model is lovely as always.


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