RE Lighting Help
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Old 04-26-2007   #1
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Here you go kgphoto! I did what you said! Cover the back box with paper so that there is a vertical stripe of face pane. Use that to edge the model. Use one soft box approx 45 left and high of model as main, and one soft box just over the camera for fill. Shoot the three shot bracket above with the fill at 1 stop less than main and then 2 stops less than main and three stops less than main. Keep the edge light at same f:stop as main. Take all 9 images and print on a grid and post so we can see them here.
Top Row Main & Back Light was Set to F-8 Fill Light was set to F-5.6, Total Exposer Dome Pointing at Lens was F-8.5 Shot @ F-6.3,F-9,F13
Second Row Main & Back Light F-8 Fill Light -1 stop @ F-4, Total Exposer Dome Pointing at Lens was F-8.3 Shot at F-5.6,F-8,F-11
Bottom Row Main & Back Light F-8 Fill Light -2 stops @ F-2.8 Total Exposer Dome Pointing at Lens was F-8 Shot at F-5.6,F-8,F-11
I also calibrated my Camera & Light Meter with a 18% gray card and found that my Sekonic L-358 was over exposing @ +1stop and made an adjustment to the Meter At +1
I hope that i did this right! Well here is the Exposers! Thanks a Million for all of your Help! Lloyd.

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Old 04-26-2007   #2
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Default Re: RE Lighting Help

OK lloyd,

Now if I can review a little. If your meter was OVEREXPOSING by 1 stop, shouldn't you have set it to -1 stop?

If the main is at f:8.0, then minus one stop for the fill would be f:5.6, not 2.8.

So as an example, if you set the main at f:8.0 and the fill at 8.0, 5.6, and 4.0 then you would take three bracketed shots at f: 8.0, f8.5(9.6), f:11.0

Following this you should find the first one at f:8.0 to be over exposed by 1/2 stop and good to go by 8.5 and 1/2 stop under at 11 and then on the next three pases you could determine which contrast ratio you like.

Judging by the pictures is looks like the back light is still too far forward and lighting up too much of her cheek on the shadow side. You turned the models face more onto the camera.

While not the perfect height to model her face, it is the perfect height to deal with the hat.

I think I like the third one on row two, but I am only looking at the small images on this forum. How do they look to you?
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Old 04-26-2007   #3
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Originally Posted by kgphoto View Post
OK lloyd,

Now if I can review a little. If your meter was OVEREXPOSING by 1 stop, shouldn't you have set it to -1 stop?

If the main is at f:8.0, then minus one stop for the fill would be f:5.6, not 2.8.

So as an example, if you set the main at f:8.0 and the fill at 8.0, 5.6, and 4.0 then you would take three bracketed shots at f: 8.0, f8.5(9.6), f:11.0

Following this you should find the first one at f:8.0 to be over exposed by 1/2 stop and good to go by 8.5 and 1/2 stop under at 11 and then on the next three pases you could determine which contrast ratio you like.

Judging by the pictures is looks like the back light is still too far forward and lighting up too much of her cheek on the shadow side. You turned the models face more onto the camera.

While not the perfect height to model her face, it is the perfect height to deal with the hat.

I think I like the third one on row two, but I am only looking at the small images on this forum. How do they look to you?
Thanks kg, back to the meter & gray card, I lit the card with no adjustment to the meter @ F-8 on the meter and looked at the Histogram and it was to the right side of center,so i stop it down to F-11 and bang its centered in the histogram ! So which way do i adjust the meter + or - on the exposer adjustment??
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Old 04-27-2007   #4
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LLoyd,

Perhaps someone more knowledgeable in the nuances of digital can answer better, but until that happens, here is my two cents. What I know comes from 25 years of film photography and not all of it translates.

I would recommend taking three mount board cards, One white, one 18% gray and one black. Illuminate them evening with your main light, but have all your lights on. Fill the frame with the three cards and take an exposure. Look at that histogram and see where all three land. If all three are with in the boundaries, That is good. If you have a lot more room on the right, which is the white side of the histogram, then open up a little. If more room on the left, then close down a little. Once you are centered, then where the middle spike is, is where 18% will fall.

I have read that not all cameras put 18% at the same point on the curve and therefore the histogram.

So once you know where it belongs, then compare to your meter suggestions. If your meter puts it to the right and it belongs there, you are done. If you meter puts it to either side, then adjust until you get it where it belongs taking shots and looking at he histogram. I like to mount my meter and camera to light stands and tripods to avoid variances created by my movements.

So if your meter always gives you an underexposed value, set the meter to the + side. If it is overexposed, the - side.
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Old 04-28-2007   #5
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Default Re: RE Lighting Help

Great thread I think the the 3rd on row 2 looks the best on my monitor as well if that helps ya out Lloyd.

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Old 04-28-2007   #6
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Originally Posted by Worm324 View Post
Great thread I think the the 3rd on row 2 looks the best on my monitor as well if that helps ya out Lloyd.

Jay
Thanks Jay! it looks good on mine to! im just trying to find the right ratio!
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Old 04-28-2007   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgphoto View Post
LLoyd,

Perhaps someone more knowledgeable in the nuances of digital can answer better, but until that happens, here is my two cents. What I know comes from 25 years of film photography and not all of it translates.

I would recommend taking three mount board cards, One white, one 18% gray and one black. Illuminate them evening with your main light, but have all your lights on. Fill the frame with the three cards and take an exposure. Look at that histogram and see where all three land. If all three are with in the boundaries, That is good. If you have a lot more room on the right, which is the white side of the histogram, then open up a little. If more room on the left, then close down a little. Once you are centered, then where the middle spike is, is where 18% will fall.

I have read that not all cameras put 18% at the same point on the curve and therefore the histogram.

So once you know where it belongs, then compare to your meter suggestions. If your meter puts it to the right and it belongs there, you are done. If you meter puts it to either side, then adjust until you get it where it belongs taking shots and looking at he histogram. I like to mount my meter and camera to light stands and tripods to avoid variances created by my movements.

So if your meter always gives you an underexposed value, set the meter to the + side. If it is overexposed, the - side.
Thanks kg ! I tryed that and it did not work that way on my meter! I started over yesterday with a grey card set the lights up and took a reading of F-8 and shot it! Way over exposed! stoped down to F-11 and Bang just right! Adjusted my meter until it read F-11 which was +1.5 over and it looks great on all other reading! I use the grey card when i shoot out doors,it puts the reading in the middle of the histogram,and i get great color balance that way with the meter! So i don't know what happens to it in the studio! Thanks again Lloyd.
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Old 04-28-2007   #8
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Default Re: RE Lighting Help

LLoyd,

What meter are you using? As long as you get the correct results the numbers don't mean anything.

Did you try the three cards approach?

I like that idea as a test so you see if there is enough data recorded at both the upper and lower ends. It is a lot cheaper to use the cards than the Photo Vision Target. Once your meter and camera are properly calibrated to one and other, you won't need to use the cards again.


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