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Old 11-15-2017   #21
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Default Re: Considering an IMAC

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Originally Posted by BobC164 View Post
So was figuring I would setup via a time machine backup during the setup process. Never did this before so not sure on the process and what gets moved. Anyone have any input on that
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204350
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Old 12-03-2017   #22
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Default Re: Considering an IMAC

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Originally Posted by Kellycat View Post
...Unfortunately, Apple currently seems to be headed in a direction that seriously reduces the users ability to tailor their computers to their changing needs....
^This.

I have been an Apple fanboy for YEARS. I've worked in higher ed IT supporting a Mac-only environment since 1998. I currently oversee about 400 Macs, everything from the 2013 MacPros to older Core2Duo iMacs, running major 3D apps through Adobe CC 2018, Office, etc. etc.

My "clients" are, of course, students but also include Art facility with working relationships with Disney, etc. And here is my take on the Apple hardware we use:

Even though I get an educational discount, I would never spend my own money on a brand new Apple product. I love Apple products, BUT, as Kellycat said, you get less for more. What you buy, you are "stuck with". Apple will cut off its air supply in several years and you won't be able to upgrade the OS or other software, even though the computer will be perfectly fine otherwise. That's what happened to an iPad 2 I was also given years ago (it's stuck on iOS 9), as is an iPad 3 from work.

Apple is a business, and they keep buyers coming by cutting off the usefulness of their older products. BTW, did your older iPhone get slower with the latest iOS release-?

If I needed a Mac badly, I would buy a used one for far less than retail and upgrade it (increase or max out RAM and add SSD). In several of my labs we are using 27" 2010 iMacs with HDD and 8 gigs RAM and getting away with running Adobe CC 2017/18. Pretty much. Compared to the MacPros, it's not pretty, but I would be happy with an upgraded 2010 for my own level of work (digital imaging, audio editing and web design, etc.).

As I write this I am sitting at a 2013 MacBook Air (i7, 500 gig SSD, 8 gigs RAM) which I did not buy, but was given to me by a colleague who was actually on the way to electronic waste with it (something to do with a cat and a large drink). When it was offered to me I said "oh yes!" The screen is messed up but the insides are clean and everything works, so I use an external monitor with it here at home and am perfectly happy. Very fast.

In the office I have a 2011-build i7 triple-boot Hackintosh (another option to consider, BTW) running OS X El Capitan, Windows 10 and Deepin Linux. I bought it from another colleague for $100 and some trade items (working G5, some old lenses). With 16 gigs RAM and a bunch of HDDs (and an older 120-gig SSD for kicks), it is the fastest computer I have access to aside from the Mac Pros, which I don't have access to for my own use.

Oh, and I also recently rescued a 2008 black MacBook from the electronic waste pile, added a 200 gig HDD and more RAM (now 4 gigs), freshly installed Lion and intend to add Linux to it to get things modern. It will make a spare internet computer for, again, $0.

So anyway, for those of you looking for a new Apple product who haven't pulled the trigger yet, consider recent-vintage used/refurbished Macs or build your own ugly box (twice as fast at half the price and future-proof).

PS: In our 2010 iMacs, we had a hard drive recall several years ago where Apple sent a couple of minions to replace them, and now some of those replacements are failing. Thankfully in the "thicker" iMacs I can tear into them and swap out the drive myself, assuming I have just the right kind around. All goes well unless you bungle up one of the teeny cable connectors. And now some of our 2012 thin 27" iMacs have had the same problem, but replacing the HDD has to be done by someone else and it costs about $175 per.

PPS: One of the MacPros recently began exhibiting graphics-related glitches in Maya and other intensive apps. Cost to repair: $500+...


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