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#21 (permalink) |
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Llama
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I'll add my thanks for this as well. I have been struggling with flash as well. Just recently I have forced myself to keep my camera in manual, period. I am now working with high speed sync and keeping my flash in manual as well. Biggest problem I've had, so far, is not switching everything back to "P" when I panic. Every one of these tutorials reinforces the fact that I'm heading in the right direction.
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"If you haven't grown up by the time you're 50, you don't have to." "Take-offs are optional. . . Landings are mandatory" |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Michael Lister
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Thanks for ewveryones input.I too am starting to take my Studio lights ( Novotrons ) on locationUsing a 1200 watt power inverter.Connected to a car battery.Works on a low budget.As well as adding a polorizer..to make the background even darker.If relationship to the sun is correct for it's added use
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Mike Lister - Ascending Phoenix Studio Recently aquired a Canon 20D via Dan Hice. OEM 4.5* glass in need of serious upgrade. *** I did upgrade to a used Tamron 2.8 lens & a 900 sqr ft Studio *** Did I mention I shot in a broom closet...don't belive me ask Dan Hice he's been here. |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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First of all a polarizer will reduce ALL light coming into through the lens, so it won't make just the background darker, it will also make the subject (lit by the flash) darker. Obviously the polarizing effect on the sky can make that seem darker.. which I assume is what you meant?
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#24 (permalink) |
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Michael Lister
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Yes that was what I meant..
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__________________
Mike Lister - Ascending Phoenix Studio Recently aquired a Canon 20D via Dan Hice. OEM 4.5* glass in need of serious upgrade. *** I did upgrade to a used Tamron 2.8 lens & a 900 sqr ft Studio *** Did I mention I shot in a broom closet...don't belive me ask Dan Hice he's been here. |
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