Tips for making a HDR photo

[Rense]

Worm234, has made some excellent tutorials on how to use HDR software like photomatix and lightroom for getting a HDR image.

The whole process starts with making different exposures and for that part I present you 7 tips:

Tip 1a: Always use a tripod
Tip 1b: Handheld shots can work, but be sure to frame them as similarly as possible.

Tib 2a: For making different exposures: do change the shuttertime, not the aperture.
(the aperture influences the depth of field, that can have negative influence on the final result)
Tip 2b: If your camera has an autobracket feauture: use it.

Tip 3a: Suggested starting point is to make 5 exposures: -4,-2,0,2,4 EV.
Tip 3b: The darkest exposure should have no pixels at 255 (i.e. as underexposed as can be), while the lightest exposure should likewise be totally overexposed.

Tip 4: Higher contrast images should have a greater exposure range (more frames, bigger exposure difference).

Tip 5: A subject without moving elements like a car (or even windy outdoor images) work best.

Tip 6: If you have a remote or a timer on your camera: use them, because you greatly reduce the risk of camera movement.

Tip 7: For postprocessing the images to a HDR read this tutorial.

[jfrancho]

You can maximize your results by metering the brightest part of the scene, noting the shutter speed. Then meter the darkest part, and note the shutter. Then spread your exposures over that range of shutter speeds, rather than the arbitrary -4 to +4 range.

[Arizona]

and don't forget mirror lockup when using the tripod and remote shutter release for the sharpest and most crisp captures.

[Jason Hermann]

Great tips all !!

Also be sure to Chimp the histogram to see your results before packing up

Best,
Jay

[Arizona]

Originally Posted by Worm324

Also be sure to Chimp the histogram to see your results before packing up

Best,
Jay

When I get wrapped up in the moment, that is the one tip that I sometimes forget to do. Sometimes it is a bad thing to forget that one. JF's tip fits right in with that as well.

[waple]

Originally Posted by Worm324

Also be sure to Chimp the histogram to see your results before packing up

What do you mean by "Chimp" it?

[Jason Hermann]

It just means to look at the histogram and go oo oo look at that Basicalyy just check for blown highlights and stuff.

Best,
Jay

[DrJiveTurkey]

Don't forget to shoot in RAW too!

[jfrancho]

Raw is not necessary if you are using 5 or more images, as there will be plenty of data to build a 32 bpc radiance file. It does help though, and I highly recommend using raw. One thing to keep in mind, if your brackets are one stop apart, make sure you are consistent with your exposure settings in the raw converter. If one is at 0, they should be at zero. Otherwise, you'll have to override Photomatix' interval, and calculate the EV difference for each file used for the HDRI.

[Jason Hermann]

Thats a great point John!!

Best,
Jay

[Oilers]

I'm going to attempt doing my first HDR picture I hope this weekend. Seeing all your great shots makes me want to learn the process. I have the Photomatix Pro software and CS2 so I should be set and I watched the video. My one question is can I shoot the 3 pictures I need to do this as jpegs instead of RAW files? I will be shoting with my 40D and 24-70 2.8L lens. Thanks.

[jfrancho]

Yes. But you'll want to lower the contrast and saturation from the default parameter settings, or use the faithful or neutral picture style. If you use five or more bracketed exposure, I'm not sure there will be any difference in the final quality of the resulting HDRI. Though my philosophy with images has always been to add as much quality as possible at each step of the work flow, and using RAW format is one of those activities. With raw, you can better control the contrast and detail with more consistency in the source images. In Jay's video, I believe he simply opens the raw files in Photomatix, whereas I convert them to 16 bpc tiff files in DPP or ACR.

[Oilers]

Thanks. I'm a pretty basic Photoshop user so some things I don't know how to do. I've never really done any shooting in raw. Maybe with this it's time to start if it's a little easier and makes the difference. Maybe i'll try both. Any other useful tips for me? Thanks again.

[jfrancho]

Give a try using RAW+JPEG.

[Oilers]

Thanks I'll give it a try. I hope my stuff comes out as good as yours with a little practice.

[Joel]

I have been trying for ages. I have a couple of questions.

Do i use the exposure +/- or shutter speed?
And what do i save it as in PS CS2? As in file type.

Thanks everyone.

[intokkabire]

Originally Posted by Joel

I have been trying for ages. I have a couple of questions.

Do i use the exposure +/- or shutter speed?

You will want to adjust the shutter speed to get the range of exposures. You would not want to adjust the aperture (or the ISO for that matter) in between exposures. If you can auto bracket that is the easiest way to get started. Shoot in Manual.

Originally Posted by Joel

And what do i save it as in PS CS2? As in file type.

Thanks everyone.

I work like this... RAW -> TIFF (for photomatix) -> TIFF (result from photomatix) -> JPG (for display on the web).

[jfrancho]

Originally Posted by Joel

I have been trying for ages. I have a couple of questions.

Do i use the exposure +/- or shutter speed?
And what do i save it as in PS CS2? As in file type.

Thanks everyone.

In aperture priority (Av) mode, you can exposure compensation (EC) to change the shutter. Or you can use auto exposure bracketing (AEB) in Av mode. Obviously, manual mode will work as well. You want to keep framing, focal length, focus point, aperture, and ISO consistent for the brackets to work.

You can save the 32 bit/channel HDRI as a radiance file, but I usually just tone map to a 16 bit/channel tiff/psd and save that as my master file. Then you can sharpen, burn and dodge, resize, etc. from there.

[cannockwolf]

Hi, first poster here


I found this site researching HDR, been playing with it a while using photomatrix plugin in photoshop cs3, and starting to get realistic results now instead of things looking a bit 'alien' so to speak.

This thread has brought up one question, since I got my Nikon D300 I have been using auto bracketing but combining this with high speed shutter release, so once braced, if possible, I fire off 3 or 5 shots in one second, I have found this to be really good for aligning up the frames in PS HDR creation and have achieved some excellent results (with alignment) using this method.

Would you think there is something inherently wrong with this method that I am not aware of?

[Jason Hermann]

Thats the best way to do it in my opinion Welcome to the camel and lets see some of your pics!

Best,
Jay