Printing from LR2 shouldn't be this difficult

[Seawolf66]

Brian G If your getting these results : Boy do I have the answer for you:

I had to check the ICM Box and Then Check the No Color Adjusment
And now I have now problems : I can print from PSE-7 or LTRM 2.3 of from windows gallery !

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by Seawolf66

Brian G If your getting these results : Boy do I have the answer for you:

I had to check the ICM Box and Then Check the No Color Adjusment
And now I have now problems : I can print from PSE-7 or LTRM 2.3 of from windows gallery !

Doesn't work for me. I've already tried this.

[brian.austin]

Update:

I needed to make some wallets for a friend so I thought I'd give it another shot...with a twist.

Built a Print Package in LR2 of all 2.5x3.5 on a 8.5x11 page. Then printed it to JPG file instead of direct to printer using sRGB as the output. Opened the file in Windows Photo Printer Wizard and printed.

No issues. Nice colors, good exposure, no problems.

I think I said I did that before but now I'm not so sure. It works. Pain in the a$$ but it works.

[Eero Makela]

Your using LR 2.3 correct. I am still at 2.1, but then I never liked the way it does the picture layout not as easy to control as in PS CS3. Also never figured out how to do borderless either.

Maybe 2.3 has some tweaks that cause this.

Does LR 2.x have paper soft proofing to simulate the paper in preview?

I forget if I said this and too lazy to read all my comments. LCD panel is back light and hence can cause photos to appear bright and very bright depending on how my cd/m2 you set it to.
Prints do not have the benefit of a back light unless you put them on a light table hehe

(from LR2.1) I use method 1, choose the paper profile

1. When selecting a custom profile, remember to turn off printer color management in the printer driver dialog box before printing. Black pint Compensation will be used for this print.

2. Also if Managed by Printer (in LR) Remember to enable color management in the printer driver dialog box

With my Cheap Canon i560 I was not able to get good results as there were no really good paper profiles available for it. Once I tried the same method on my Epson 3800 it worked out well as the paper I was using was also Epson and their paper profile was a near perfect match.

[Eero Makela]

Update tried borderless, it does do it but you need to set it in printer driver and the LR view still shows it as white border.

Final result there is a fine white border on both of the long sides, mind you this is a 8.5 x 11 paper print, I have only done 11x17 borderless before.

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by Eero Makela

Update tried borderless, it does do it but you need to set it in printer driver and the LR view still shows it as white border.

I've gotten rid of the border by changing my page setup in LR prior to printing.

[Jason Hermann]

Originally Posted by brian.austin

I've gotten rid of the border by changing my page setup in LR prior to printing.

Me too, it works on my 4x6 inch prints.

Best,
Jay

[riha]

Originally Posted by brian.austin

Why? What's the point in using a calibration system if it's not truly calibrating the monitor with the custom profile?? Is there another option that I should be using?

EDIT: And, if the monitor calibration is so far off, why does everything ELSE seem to work for it?

The problem is not the colours or the profile, the problem is that in most cases you do not have sufficient light in your room to get as bright colours on the print as it is reflective media.

By lowering the brightness on your display while callibrating, then you might see the same "darker" colors as if you print, otherwise you will always have to check your prints in an viewing booth or next to an window or similar to get the same kind of "brightness" as your display have.

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by riha

The problem is not the colours or the profile, the problem is that in most cases you do not have sufficient light in your room to get as bright colours on the print as it is reflective media.

By lowering the brightness on your display while callibrating, then you might see the same "darker" colors as if you print, otherwise you will always have to check your prints in an viewing booth or next to an window or similar to get the same kind of "brightness" as your display have.

I'm guessing you either didn't read the thread or missed some relevant portions.

Image looks the same in Windows Photo viewer and LR2. Prints look different between the two however.

If it was a monitor calibration issue, the print would be consistent between applications. It's not.

[riha]

Originally Posted by brian.austin

I'm guessing you either didn't read the thread or missed some relevant portions.

Image looks the same in Windows Photo viewer and LR2. Prints look different between the two however.

If it was a monitor calibration issue, the print would be consistent between applications. It's not.

I quoted your answer because that was an answer YOU gave to this statement:

"Don't forget that you need to calibrate the monitor to lower brightness then the spyder recommends.

As per Eric Chan

"Even if your calibration software recommends setting the target luminance to a higher value (e.g., 120 cd/m2), I still suggest using a lower value such as 100 cd/m2.""


It has nothing more to do than that, it was just an answer to WHY you should lower the brightness of the callibration of a moitor.

[poliwog]

First of all, Windows Gallery is NOT color-managed whereas LR is. I think you may have a corrupted preference or just a mis-set profile somewhere. Make sure LR is using your correct monitor profile. I have no problems whatsoever printing from LR on Vista, XP or Tiger (Mac OS 10.4.11).

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by poliwog

First of all, Windows Gallery is NOT color-managed whereas LR is. I think you may have a corrupted preference or just a mis-set profile somewhere. Make sure LR is using your correct monitor profile. I have no problems whatsoever printing from LR on Vista, XP or Tiger (Mac OS 10.4.11).

Sigh. I give up. Whatever.

[Mr. Pickles]

I would too.

[Jason Hermann]

That makes 3

[bbrat]

I finally cracked open my R1900 the other night and the first print looked washed out on Luster paper. Then I changed the output to adobe rgb w/2.2 gam. It it matched perfectly to my monitor. this was from LR2.3.

[swampler]

My Dad has LR printing correctly to an HP printer. I'll see if I can get him to chime in.

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by bbrat

I finally cracked open my R1900 the other night and the first print looked washed out on Luster paper. Then I changed the output to adobe rgb w/2.2 gam. It it matched perfectly to my monitor. this was from LR2.3.

I didn't try that. Thanks, I'll give it a shot this weekend.

[Songman45]

So Brian how's the printer issue going? Did the weekend bring a solution or should I come over with liquior and beer?

[PhotoshopAbuser]

Hmmm...been 3 days Songman. Perhaps someone else showed up with the cocktails....

[SureFire]

Just saw this thread. Brian, you need to run that PrintFix CD that came with your Spyder. It will build a custom profile that works perfectly with Lightroom. I print directly from LR and my images are dead on. All I did was run the Spyder calibration as normal and followed up with the PrintFix application. Once I loaded the custom built profile that the PrintFix supplied, it worked perfectly. Additionally, I only use pigment compatible papers. (Epsons, Kodak Professional & Ilfords) As long as you have the correct paper, calibration and custom profile, you should be spot on. To sum up why this works, I believe the PrintFix app creates a better lookup table that works with the LR ProPhoto conversion... Just IMO. My images are perfect outside of rare out of gamut extremes.