Are you mounting your images to a hard backing?

[D.Rodgers]

I've noticed a couple of my A3 prints are a little buckled in the matting .
I want to mount the images to a cardboard back before hand.
Is there a spray adhesive that is photo friendly?

[Latinbob]

I've used Krylon Easy-Tack repositional adhesive for years. I buy it locally at Hobby Lobby. You should be able to get it at any craft store. It doesn't create a permanent bond, so you can correct any mounting errors easily. I have some pictures that I framed and mounted several years ago that are still nice and tight.

Bob

[D.Rodgers]

Thanks Bob I use that tape to mount the picture to the matt never thought of using it to mount the backing.

[Driftwood]

3M Photo mount

You should find it with Google.

[Aeronut]

An awful lot depends on how highly you value your prints. If you consider them expendable, then spray photo mount adhesive is probably easiest and quickest, but do be very careful if you are going to apply the spray to the back of the photo, as it's all too easy to get overspray onto the front and there's no easy way to remove it! Dry mounting is probably safest all round, but don't use a heat press on inkjet prints or you risk spoiling them. There are several cold dry mounting products available in roll form and they are probably safest to use. Of course, if it's a valuable print, then none of the above applies and you should be archivally mounting them, which is a whole new ball game!

[Latinbob]

Originally Posted by Aeronut

...but do be very careful if you are going to apply the spray to the back of the photo, as it's all too easy to get overspray onto the front and there's no easy way to remove it!

Good point. I always start with an oversized backing board. Then I put my print face down on newspaper and spray the adhesive carefully on the print. Then I place the print on my backing board and gently pat it down with a sheet of acid free copy paper. After I get it nice and flat, I then cut the backing board to size.

Bob

[visagephoto]

I use Daler Rowney "Xtra Tak" self adhesive permanent mounting board, I have a couple of 20x 16 framed prints which I mounted a couple of years ago and carry around as samples, They have often been left in the boot of my car (even in winter) and are still as even as the day they were framed.

[D.Rodgers]

Originally Posted by visagephoto

I use Daler Rowney "Xtra Tak" self adhesive permanent mounting board, I have a couple of 20x 16 framed prints which I mounted a couple of years ago and carry around as samples, They have often been left in the boot of my car (even in winter) and are still as even as the day they were framed.

I'm intriqued whats the cost like ..

[visagephoto]

Originally Posted by D.Rodgers

I'm intriqued whats the cost like ..

Hi David

I purchase the "Daler Rowney" Xtra-Tak self adhesive boards from my local framer supplier, In the UK they cost £5.00 Inc. vat per board, which at 44"x 32" is large enough to mount four 20"x 16 prints @ £1.25 each.

Alan

[nasoj21]

I don't use a full glue on mine I use a piece of acid free tape on all four corner of the print and hinge the top of mat with that. That way at any point I can replace either the mat or the print.
But I have used and love the convienence of 'dry adhesive, dryboard' from chart pack.
I think it is probably similar to what visage uses. You lay the print on a sheet of wax paper that has a bunch of glue tabs on it which transfer from there to the print.

[BusToBedlam]

Originally Posted by Aeronut

An awful lot depends on how highly you value your prints. If you consider them expendable, then spray photo mount adhesive is probably easiest and quickest, but do be very careful if you are going to apply the spray to the back of the photo, as it's all too easy to get overspray onto the front and there's no easy way to remove it! Dry mounting is probably safest all round, but don't use a heat press on inkjet prints or you risk spoiling them. There are several cold dry mounting products available in roll form and they are probably safest to use. Of course, if it's a valuable print, then none of the above applies and you should be archivally mounting them, which is a whole new ball game!

When it comes to sprays and glues, I never touch them. Not only are they messy as stated above, but you are introducing materials that are anything but conservation or archival in nature. No mater if they are labeled as acid free or not, very few pass the test of 'do no harm' and be reversible now and later. About as close as you can get is some of the dry mount materials available now but still for conservation mounting of matted artwork and photography nothing beats a simple hinge using archival hinging tapes.

[MalcolmK]

I only mount my prints at the two top corners and let the print hang inside the mat. I hing a double mat with acid free tape to an acid free foam core backing board. That is the approach that museums use since the picture can expand and contract. I tried the sprays and and 3M product and none of them worked as well. I always got buckling over time. The top two corner approach is the only way to go IMHO. I also use a heaver paper, Ilford Gallery Silk, which also helps since it's thick.

Malcolm

[BusToBedlam]

You have the right approach Malcolm. When I am looking at different print papers its good to consider how heavy they are also. Many of the cheaper inkjet photo papers out there tend to be very thin and buckle easy. If the finished matted print will hang in a place with wide temperature changes or humidity, a print on thin paper will be more prone to buckles or if it is hinged on more than on side this happens. As I have said, I prefer just hinging but as an alternative to photo sprays or dry mounting, there are also choices like Crescent's Perfect Mount board, Nielsen Bainbridge's Arcare Restore Foam Board and then some other materials made by Bienfang.

[jcb]

How about the 3M brand adhesive foam core sheets? Do any of you have experience with that? I just bought a sheet ($2.99) to try out. Any ideas?