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#11 |
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Llama
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Hey Benji,
The locals were not in the thread details, I have lived in many different places to include high in the Northern Hemisphere where those hours of operations don't always apply. When I lived in the UK we had cloud cover for 95% of the time which allowed naturally defused light which I loved! __________________
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#12 | ||
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Llama
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Benji, with your 30 years of experience do you have some practical advice that I can apply in these situation other than just avoiding it? |
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#13 |
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F1 Camel
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Shooting outside and with natural light isn't my strong suit so my advice would just be based on advice given to me and on the details of others here who are very good at using natural light and during the day.
I wouldn't buy anything right away. You may end up with a bunch of stuff you don't need or wish you had spent the money on something else. Reflectors and diffusers can be hard to use outside if it is windy at all. Your 580 will work great as fill flash which is probably the best way to go in sunlight rather than trying to use the flash as a main in those circumstances Here are a few people and places you can take a look at that are among the best at doing what you are talking about.. Benji has a tutorial on it here that is helpful. Fran does this a lot and has several threads on here where he has explained how he did it. RainLilly(Sis) shoots outside a lot and has quite a few threads and images on here with good discussions and advice from others on how she shot. I think the consensus is pretty much that trying to shoot in the open when the sun is high and bright is a very difficult thing to do. Hard enough that most of us avoid it like the plague. As a side note: Orion. Everyone's location is right below our username under our avatar beside all of our posts. Some folks don't have one there but most do. |
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__________________
“Insanity is doing the same thing, over and over again, but expecting different results.” ― Narcotics Anonymous Keith http://keithdewey3.smugmug.com/ |
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#14 | |
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Llama
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Synchronizing a flash under 1/200 of second and still keeping the aperture at 5.6 is not always possible under these conditions. So a diffuser might have been a better choice. Without an assistant I know I would need a stand and clamps. And while wind would have been a challenge, it might have been the best choice. A scrim overhead would have been great to have as well to kill the hot spots and allow better use of a fill flash, but in general that’s a lot of gear to move around. |
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#15 |
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F1 Camel
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One easy lighting for those nasty mid-day hours is to place the subject just inside a shadowed area and have an assistant hold a large reflector in the sunlight to bounce some of that sunlight onto the subject. The bounced light can be the main or fill light depending on what your concept of the image.
A large reflector can be up to a 6'x4' one but remember the bigger it is the harder it will be for the assistant to hold it if there is any wind. |
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__________________
--Don-- Canon 7D, Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II, Tamron SP AF28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di, Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM Nissin Di866, Electra CLASSIC Plus studio strobes & modifiers Sekonic L-358 Flash Meter, Yongnuo RF-602 Transmitters & Receivers Dell 20" 2001F (1200x1800) IPS monitor, Samsung SyncMaster 23" F2380 (1920x1280) PVA monitor, Datacolor Spyder3Elite for monitor calibration |
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#16 | |
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Photocamel Master
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Just like any professional with years of experience I can do thigs that those with less experience can't do simply because I made all the dumb mistakes many many years ago and learned from them. Most of those things were things that the pros said couldn't be done but I tried them anyway and I quickly learned the hard way that they were right. ![]() So, assuming you don't want to spend hard earned $$$ on equipment that you may or may not ever use again, but you want nice professional looking images, you need to work like a professional would. MOST professionals use shade not sunlight, nor do they shoot in the sunshine when it is high overhead. Granted Dean Collins shot regularily in bright sunshine, but he had about 12 assistants, several flash units, numerous gobos, lots of reflectors, a number of light absorbers and YEARS of experience doing it. The first image below shows an image that needed fill flash, and when it was added it did what the fill flash is supposed to do fill in the shadows. The second image shows an overhead light blocker in use blocking the undesirable direct overhead light that causes raccoon eyes. It also shows a silver reflector bouncing some additional light into the scene. The note about the hole in the canopy is about the natural hair light that this location has due to a storm breaking a large branch off of a large tree behind and to camera left that left a large hole in the canopy above and well behind her. The last image was shot in the shade (under the roof of the portico of our local courthouse) with a single silver reflector at camera left just out of camera view mounted on a light stand. Benji |
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__________________
In the end, people appreciate frankness more than flattery. Prov 28:23 |
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#17 |
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Photocamel Master
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Oops,
Here is the "money shot" that I captured right after the second image. The reason for my comments about the hair light in the wide angle shot was the fact that when I first posted this image last fall here on Photocamel a couple of responders were curious about the hair light, where it came from, did I add it via a flash and so forth. Benji |
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__________________
In the end, people appreciate frankness more than flattery. Prov 28:23 |
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#18 | |
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Llama
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#19 | |
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Llama
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#20 |
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Llama
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__________________
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