More advice needed please

[New2Nik]

I am headed out on a fishing trip in a couple days, most of the pictures i am going to are from a boat. Lots of scenery and hopefully some whales and porpoises. I use a nikon d-80 and 70 - 200 f2.8 vr. Should i buy a couple filters before i go, what would be a good starting point for camera settings for whales and porpoises.

All advice is appreciated.
Thanks

[Douglas]

Polarizer for sure. Not sure what else.

If youre not too familiar with them, bad time to learn is when youre taking an important shot. By that I mean if you wont have the time to test and see how they work for you, you could end up dissapointed. But since its out on the water, I would say you would want a circular polarizer for sure.

[w7apd]

Yes, definitely you want a polarizer. Make sure to buy a circular polarizer, not a linear one. (You can use the CP with any camera of any type, not true with the LP.)

I'd also consider an 81B warming filter to reduce the excessive blue at sea. An option would be a polarizer with the 81B in the same filter.

[brian.austin]

And a water resistant/proof cover of some sort.

Saltwater + dSLRs don't mix well.

[New2Nik]

Originally Posted by brian.austin

And a water resistant/proof cover of some sort.

Saltwater + dSLRs don't mix well.

Thanks, i never thought of that. Back to the store.

[New2Nik]

Originally Posted by w7apd

Yes, definitely you want a polarizer. Make sure to buy a circular polarizer, not a linear one. (You can use the CP with any camera of any type, not true with the LP.)

I'd also consider an 81B warming filter to reduce the excessive blue at sea. An option would be a polarizer with the 81B in the same filter.

I went and bought the polarizing filter, would i use the warming filter with the polarizing filter or seperatly, or should i just buy the polarizer with the 81 b in it.

[cyclohexane]

would i use the warming filter with the polarizing filter or seperatly, or should i just buy the polarizer with the 81 b in it.

You can just set your WB to "Cloudy" or "Shade", depending on how much of a warming effect you want. Try "Cloudy -2" before the warming filter.

[Not4wood]

The only other thing I can suggest after the Polarizer Filter and the WB Setting of "Cloudy -2" is to make sure your Lens VR setting is correct. I have the 70-300 VR and I have two settings, the On (for normal hand shake) and the "Active" for more aggressive movements like being on a boat.

Fast question for Michael, I have been getting real used to Shade instead of the Cloudy setting. If I were to use Shade -2 on Water can I expect about the same thing or am I making it worse? I just realized reading your posts, I will be on a Boat in the UK in the next few days and am curious as to how I should shoot it of course depending on the crazy weather they've been having accross the pond the past week Can we have a fast discussion on the color changes and what happens to compensate with the shade and cloudy settings. Also, what should be happening to make you change the WB to these settings. Of course like bright sun and snow which reflects an awful lot of blue as well.

Almost forgot, one more important point. In a boat with water splashing from fish and other humans, shaking from the boat movement. I would suggest trying to NOT change lenses unless you can get yourself in a nice out of the way spot with a table. You dont want to drop these expensive toys.

[New2Nik]

Almost forgot, one more important point. In a boat with water splashing from fish and other humans, shaking from the boat movement. I would suggest trying to NOT change lenses unless you can get yourself in a nice out of the way spot with a table. You dont want to drop these expensive toys.[/quote]

My brother is coming along to, he has a d-60, i won't have to worry about changing lenses this time. I hope it is a little smother this year then last.

[Not4wood]

I'm going for a two week trip, and my first stop and I dont care what time it is over there. I will go to the nearest/first Pub I see and order a draft. Then I will sort the WB out.

Bright Sun, on the water
Party Cloudy on the water
Full Cloud cover on the water

Shooting anything near slightly overcast, I've been finding myself shooting Shade 0 and I've been pretty happy with it. Bright Sun and I go to Auto. The one time I did use my polarizer in bright sun, all of my shots were severe blue with WB on Auto. I didn't know or ever hear about Shade +3 and I guess that depends. Could this go shade +2 as well?? Or does it also depend on how much bright sun is out?

[cyclohexane]

Also, what should be happening to make you change the WB to these settings

"Cloudy -2" usually looks "about right" to most eyes under direct sunlight, sort of like a Skylight effect. Just a touch of needed red that's not always there with "Auto", though the more recent Nikons are better about it.

The one time I did use my polarizer in bright sun, all of my shots were severe blue with WB on Auto.

With my D70 I used to use "Shade+1" when shooting with a polarizer in bright sun. I can't remember what I shot my D2H at. Auto WB on any DSLR I've used with a Polarizer has been too blue.

Or does it also depend on how much bright sun is out?

It's more a function of the polarizer. While they are theoretically color neutral, I've found that even the "best" ones (most expensive, heheh) render a subtle (or not so subtle) cooling effect on the color of the images. The reason I use "subtle" is because Auto WB does a great job of missing it.

Also, you will see some shift in how much blue is added depending on the degree of polarization dialed in, but it's usually a negligible shift.

[Not4wood]

Great thanks, Michael.

At least this will give me a ballpark place to head for these shots. As far as water is concerned, I haven't shot anywhere near water yet. Duh, I have been practicing as much as I could and I never knew we were going anywhere near a boat. LOL