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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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I am looking at reconfiguring my shop so I can have a 12 ft x 24 ft studio for portraits. My subjects will be children and teens up to groups of 6, Families of up to 6 (2 adults 4 children), Couples and babies.
What problems and limitations will I find using a 12 ft x 24 ft studio?? Russ __________________
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#2 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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Hi RV-
If you tell me what you lighting system ls like and what type of studio background you use, I can better advise you. |
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__________________
Ed Shapiro - Master Photographer The Hintonburg Studio 201 78 Hinton Avenue North Ottawa, Ontario - Canada K1Y 0Z8 613-792-4837 edshapiro@rogers.com |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Good Question ED
I have 4 strobes 3 160 ws and 1 320 ws with up to 40" umbrellas, a 28" x 40" softbox and a 32" by 48" softbox I have been using living room. But am tired or redecorating every time I want use my stuff. Need a place that will allow more practice easier. Just look what limitations I will be facing. Russ |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Your limitaions will be the ceiling height for any standing portraits. A 10 ft ceiling height is a minimum for seated portraits with 12 ft or higher recommended for anything involving a standing adult(s). If you do have a 12ft or higher ceiling height, you might want to look into a ceiling grid system with moving rails and pantographs to get most of your lighting fixtures and cords off the floor. A good grid system is invaluable . The one in my studio supports 4 lights on 3 moving rails and covers 24 x 30 ft. from the 13 ft ceiling to the floor.
Using the 24 ft. dimension as the shooting depth of the studio you might have some limitations using a longer lens for larger groups, but you can get away with a closer to normal focal length if you are shooting a larger group at a distance. You will want the ability to have 8-12 ft. behind the subject to effectively control the lighting and DOF on the bkgd. Conversely a 12ft width leaves only 1.5 ft per side when using a 9ft wide background. You could also use some larger soft boxes, such as a 4ft x 6 ft softbox or 6.5ft square silk which you can use for softer light at a greater distance from larger groups or subjects I think you will find that you need/want a good bit more strobe power. A couple of 1200ws power packs or a 2400ws AND 1200ws power pack and 4-6 heads would be a good start. You can always build up your equipment over time but if you start with a shooting space that's small in some way, specifically with ceilings that are too low, you will be limited in the type and quality of the lighting that you can create. Hope this helps. |
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__________________
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro...." Hunter S. Thompson |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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Hi Again Ross!
The ceiling hight, as Brooks alluded to can be an issue, however, if you have worked in your living room with some success you may be able to make do for the time being. The issue I am a bit worried about is the 12 foot width of the room. 14 feet is about the minimum for using kicker and accent lights which are usually placed at 135 degrees off the camera/subject axis. Some of your soft boxes are quite large and may become unwieldy in such a comparatively narrow space- you may have to consider smaller umbrellas or parabolic reflectors with diffusers and grids. You may be able to get away with the lights you have now using in if the big soft boxes for a fixed fill hung high behind the camera and you umbrella unit as a mobile key or main light. You smaller soft box can serve as a kicker if you have the space. A hair light on a boom stand may also become problematic with as 12 foot width. If this is a spare room in your house, you cam probably overcome some of theses issues and still achieve good results, however, if you are thinking or renting commercial or industrial space, It is better to get a camera room with high ceiling and a bigger space so that you can move all your lights freely around the room, hang or paint on the wall an adequately wide background and have some space left over for larger groups and full length portraits. If you can find an affordable space, why restrict yourself? Let us know what you think. Ed ![]() |
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__________________
Ed Shapiro - Master Photographer The Hintonburg Studio 201 78 Hinton Avenue North Ottawa, Ontario - Canada K1Y 0Z8 613-792-4837 edshapiro@rogers.com |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Thanks Brooks and Ed.
This is an existing part of my shop I will have to remove a wall to get the 24ft right now it is two rooms of 10ft and 14 ft. I will have about 9 ft for my ceiling heigth but the joists are exposed do I could hang lights from them. I am looking for someplace to practice. RUss |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
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Hi Russ,
My little studio is an addition on our barn that runs the length of the building. It is 12 ft wide, shooting width is less as I have storage of props on both sides. With smaller groups or individuals, I dont' have a problem (except when trying to use a kicker light, its just too harsh even at 1/4 power!). My lights include a 28x40 softbox, a 36" umbrella, hairlight and a background light (when needed). Mine all plug in to the wall and are on stands. If you are able to get your lights up off the floor and into the joists somehow, you will find you're not tripping in the small spaces! I can try to post a picture later if you'd like to see my little "hallway" studio. Stephanie |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Photocamel Master
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Bigger is always better but I've found that people find ways to adapt. I've seen some killer shots that were literally done in someone's walk-in closet.
The key is to be able to adjust your light to compensate for distance, control light bounce, and pose for the space. Build it as you need to and test. Then post for some feedback. Eventually you'll figure out how to adapt and use your space effectively. __________________
__________________
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