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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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When using flash, which icon do I use in the wb?.....awb or flash or is there another on that is more preferable?
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#3 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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I never like what either the 30D or the 350D/XT assumes is proper WB when using the flash or anything else for that matter. I always use custom, neither AWB nor the Flash setting works for me. I always calibrate the WB with a 18% gray card or in my case, a 18% gray lens wipe/cleaner and then set for custom. I also shoot in RAW so it is easier to change color temps when it becomes necessary.
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Photocamel Master
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I leave mine on AWB, shoot RAW, and set it upon import or after I can see it on the calibrated screen. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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Makes sense...But I try to get it right out of camera, hence the gray card thing, but that works too, one of the wonders of RAW.
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__________________
"Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity."- Hanlon's Razor I'm post happy, but Karma starved ...please donate some
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Photocamel Master
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Otherwise, it's a waste of time as far as I'm concerned. With RAW, there is no such thing as "getting it right in camera" because the data doesn't care. It's not processed in camera. It's set in the conversion process OUT of camera. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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F1 Camel
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Quote:
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__________________
"Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity."- Hanlon's Razor I'm post happy, but Karma starved ...please donate some
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Photocamel Master
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It's one of the reasons why I don't bother with anything other than the color card. Have the model hold it, smile pretty, take a shot, put it down, keep shooting. Later, in post (via LR for me), CTRL-A to select all, then set the color temp as needed to get white OR use the eyedropper to define white. Do it anyway you want. It's your workflow and works for you. My only point is that the relevance of the data is just the same as any other method when using RAW. JPG, now, that's a different matter. Set it using a gray card during the shoot for best results in my experience. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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F1 Camel
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Quote:
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__________________
"Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity."- Hanlon's Razor I'm post happy, but Karma starved ...please donate some
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() Then theoretically I could shoot in raw and overexpose by say 3 stops and bring all the detail back because I am using raw? That one I want to see. There is such a thing as getting it right in the camera. Focus= get it right or forget it as far as a sharp shot goes. Exposure, especially overexposure, get it right or be less than satisfied with the results afterwards. While I will agree that WB is not as important as other factors, there are times that it better to be right the first time rather than correct later. The one occasion I always set a custom WB is if I am shooting sports in an indoor venue with massive amounts of fluorescent lighting. A custom WB seems to help reduce the amount or at least the problem of color shift I get from the fluorescent lighting. I'm not trying to be nit-picky here, but your statement concerned me Brian due to the large number of less experienced photographers that may set too much stock in RAW when they don't understand it. RAW has it's advantages, but it is not a fix all. |
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You don't take a photograph. You ask, quietly, to borrow it. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Photocamel Master
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RAW in itself doesn't CARE about WB. Aside from recording the information, the data is not actually used during processing in-camera, except for the JPG you see on your LCD screen. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Llama
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The lightning bolt indicates a fixed Flash WB.
Fixed WB is preferable in all situations but is naturally not too practical with changing lighting running indoors back out etc. The problem with AWB is that it shifts. It is influenced by what people are wearing and will vary accordingly, it will also vary as you reframe and it will also just vary ~ just because it can, seemingly. Hence, when I’m out in a sunny day, I’ll pick the sun symbol and generally match the symbol to the weather or indoor lighting. By default I have it set to AWB. Custom settings like those described are extremely useful too, especially as no one seems to have released figure or WB setting for the new CFC ‘daylight’ lights. They are not daylight, not tungsten and not fluorescent. AWB is fine, does an OK job but using the appropriate fixed WB will bring consistency. ![]() __________________
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