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#1 |
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Alpaca
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Would any of the members be able to assist me. My friend has some Koi fish and would like them photographed. I've tried shooting on manual, manual focus, flash/noflash but to no avail (and the damn things don't stand still). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. Ken
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#2 |
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Llama
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I tried using flash and a polorizing filter to cut the glare. Worked pretty well, and my biggest problem was as you say "don't stand still". I use a Nikon D80 and I found the auto focus was sometimes focusing on the glare of the water and other times the fish, so I used manual focus and focused on a spot and waited until one entered that spot in the frame. I was concerned that the water was showing as black and the metering would be off, but the flash adjusted and I got good exposures. I ended up deleting all photos as I chalked my first attempt to a learning session. But I'm going to try again as soon as I get back to the fish pond. Best regards, Ray
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#3 |
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Vicuna
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Can you possibly build a water tight clear lexan box with an open top that you can put in the water with the Koi and then lower the camer in from the top. You'd have to prefocus and probably use a remote trigger, but it is a possibility. Or possibly and underwater housing...
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Tony... |
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#4 |
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F1 Camel
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that or move the fish to fish tanks for solo shooting.
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Fuji S2/S3/S5 Pro Kenko MC7 2X, Pro 300 Nkkor 50 1.8 70-300VR Phoenix 100, 650-1300& Sima 100mm F2 SF Sigma 12-24, 18-50 HSM, 18-125, 50-500, 70-300, 120-300, 1.4X 2x Tamron 28-75 |
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#5 |
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Photocamel Master
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You didn't say what kind of camera you're using, which matters when trying to capture something like this. A lot of P&S digitals aren't suited to the task of constantly moving objects.
If I was doing it, I'd do it this way: 1. Set up tripod 2. Add polarizing filter and flash to the camera and mount it on tripod 3. Select a good area to use as a background 4. Pre-focus on the area and test it by floating something to it or use your hand right at the waterline to confirm (obviously a timer is required here). 5. Meter using the same technique 6a. Wait or 6b. Toss some food in to get the fish to your focused area. |
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#6 |
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Camel Breath
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The way we used to photograph them was to use a small, blue photo pool, about the size of large bus pan. A CP and consistent, indirect light are a must. Tripod is optional. These were used as due diligence documentation of both the fish's health and pattern/coloration. If you are looking for a more creative/natural composition, the method Brian describes above will work well. If your looking for detail, then moving them to "photo pool" is better.
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¿ <°)))))>< |
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#7 |
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F1 Camel
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fish tanks=photo pool
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Fuji S2/S3/S5 Pro Kenko MC7 2X, Pro 300 Nkkor 50 1.8 70-300VR Phoenix 100, 650-1300& Sima 100mm F2 SF Sigma 12-24, 18-50 HSM, 18-125, 50-500, 70-300, 120-300, 1.4X 2x Tamron 28-75 |
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#8 |
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Camel Breath
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Actually, no it doesn't. Koi are best viewed from above. Plus, shooting fish in a glass tank presents a whole other set of issues. Here is a good example of a shot in a photo pool: http://www.koifooddirect.co.uk/image...-art-large.jpg
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¿ <°)))))>< |
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#9 |
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Dromedary
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Kennymza,
You might read Koi Photography and many other treatises on this subject. This is a true case of experimenting and practice making perfect. We have a koi pond in are yard and we shoot photos of koi often, mainly with a Nikon D80. Our best shots are acquired with a circular polarizer and indirect light, the more the merrier, I mean brighter. Good luck, Tom |
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#12 |
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Photocamel Master
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We have a small, almost like a pond for Koi. My question is...what do you mean guys when you say "indirect light". Do you mean to have an extension cord and position the flash on the side, or do you mean to bounce it off a white board.
Thanks |
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It's all about light, my friend. |
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#13 |
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Guanaco
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If you can find or borrow a blue floating Koi bowl and put the Koi in one of these you will have less water and reflections. They also make a rectangular bowl that has length marking on it. Now be mindful the bowls are expensive around $100.00 for a 20-24" bowl, but a Koi owner who really likes there fish will usually have one. As mentioned before Koi are breed to be seen from above. If you are trying to take pictures in the pond shadows and waves are your worst enemies. I have found natural light to work best and if they have a shallow water area which again tends to lesson the amount of light distortion.
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Nikon D200 |
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#14 |
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Vicuna
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[quote=aam1234;280933]We have a small, almost like a pond for Koi. My question is...what do you mean guys when you say "indirect light". Do you mean to have an extension cord and position the flash on the side, or do you mean to bounce it off a white board.
As you say, "it's all about the light"! If you were to use a "Koi bowl" (as suggested by Koisanke), you could place it indoors by a window with the light illuminating the fish through the side of the bowl (indirectly), while you photograph it from above. Ideally, there would also be a reflecting surface on the away-from-the-window side to reflect some light onto the fish from that direction as well. You could drape some white or off-white fabric over the seat and back of a chair, facing a window, place the "Koi bowl" on the seat of the chair and take ambient light pictures from directly above. |
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#15 |
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Guanaco
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I personally would not move a Koi in a bowl inside. I would try and "bowl it" somewhere out of direct light which could be done with an overhead shade cloth or canopy. Koi do not like getting taken out of their large swimming area and put in a small bowl and moved around. Outside is fine, just try to null out the shadows. You can use a flash on the bowled fish or in shallow water if it is clear. I can post a couple pictures of this if someone desires.
The avatar I have was a Koi in 4' of water in my old pond. That much water will cloud the colors a little. __________________
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Nikon D200 |
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