Motorhome Owners Please Respond

[Dave R.]

I'll be retiring in a few months and the wife and I want to fulfill a long time dream of having an RV and traveling around this country. We are currently shopping around to purchase a motorhome. We can't afford what I would like to have but getting a descent unit just a few years old and plenty of room is doable. I'm torn between gas or diesel and how many slides but mainly what I would appreciate from anyone here with experience in RV's is for you to share your thoughts on what to be most cautious of and what to look for that are must have ammenities. Thanks in advance.

[poloman]

I can't advise you but my father in law has a unit for sale with low mileage at a great price. Pm me and I'll get you the info.
He lives in Southern Illinois.

[dmthompson]

Originally Posted by Dave R.

I'll be retiring in a few months and the wife and I want to fulfill a long time dream of having an RV and traveling around this country. We are currently shopping around to purchase a motorhome. We can't afford what I would like to have but getting a descent unit just a few years old and plenty of room is doable. I'm torn between gas or diesel and how many slides but mainly what I would appreciate from anyone here with experience in RV's is for you to share your thoughts on what to be most cautious of and what to look for that are must have ammenities. Thanks in advance.

Good for you, retirement is what you make of it. I retired a number of years ago after spending 32 years working for a heavy equipment manufacture dealer. In that time I had the chance to work on many motorhomes although never having owned one.

The choice of drivetrains is the most difficult of choices to make. There are certain things that go into making the right choice.
1) How large a motorhome did you have in mind (gross weight)?
2) How many miles per year are you going to put on it?
3) Do you intend to tow anything (an automoble)?
4) How long are you going to keep it?
5) How much are you willing to spend?

The larger the motorhome the more likely to be diesel. There is a reason heavy trucks are diesel powered. Although gasoline engines usually put out more hp than many diesels low end torque is what moves the load up the hills. Although costing more to start with the larger the rig the more the costs are offset with longer life and fewer repairs. Diesel fuel is more expensive but they also get better miliage. Another advanage of diesel is that some can be equiped with a JAKE BRAKE which when applied going downhill can reduce the load on the braking system thus reducing overall cost as well. Most diesels are made for a heavy duty cycle while gasoline engines are adapted from the standard gosoline light truck engine.

This is not to say that a gasoline engine will not do a great job in a lot of appliciations only that the diesel is better for heavier applications. Hope this gives you something to use in your search.

Dwight

[Dave R.]

Originally Posted by dmthompson

Good for you, retirement is what you make of it. I retired a number of years ago after spending 32 years working for a heavy equipment manufacture dealer. In that time I had the chance to work on many motorhomes although never having owned one.

The choice of drivetrains is the most difficult of choices to make. There are certain things that go into making the right choice.
1) How large a motorhome did you have in mind (gross weight)?
2) How many miles per year are you going to put on it?
3) Do you intend to tow anything (an automoble)?
4) How long are you going to keep it?
5) How much are you willing to spend?

The larger the motorhome the more likely to be diesel. There is a reason heavy trucks are diesel powered. Although gasoline engines usually put out more hp than many diesels low end torque is what moves the load up the hills. Although costing more to start with the larger the rig the more the costs are offset with longer life and fewer repairs. Diesel fuel is more expensive but they also get better miliage. Another advanage of diesel is that some can be equiped with a JAKE BRAKE which when applied going downhill can reduce the load on the braking system thus reducing overall cost as well. Most diesels are made for a heavy duty cycle while gasoline engines are adapted from the standard gosoline light truck engine.

This is not to say that a gasoline engine will not do a great job in a lot of appliciations only that the diesel is better for heavier applications. Hope this gives you something to use in your search.

Dwight

Thanks Dwight. Without going into a lot of detail I am currently focusing on a diesel pusher. I doubt we will travel the USA as once planned but there are so many locations West of the Rockies that I would love to see. The cost of fuel is certainly a factor as is livabilty. The wife likes her creature comforts as do I. We found one this weekend that we both really liked but it is about 15K over budget. Go figure. I've got less than one year remaining before retirement so no hurry. The right one will come along soon enough.

[Steven G Webb]

My folks are retired and full time RV'ers and I spent a year and a half working out of one. Diesel pushers (because the engine is in the rear) are more expensive than gasoline. There is a huge plus if you'll be driving more than parked. The engine noise and heat are major league woes for me. That's supposing you are thinking a class-A coach, rather than a class-C. Maint. costs for diesel should be checked into, those boys use gallons of oil rather than quarts and glow plugs instead of spark plugs. For decades, diesel engines had a longer life expectancy than gasoline, not really so much anymore.

No matter how many the RV will seat, they generally sleep two. Compare the bedding arrangements and how they meet your specific travel habits. Some have a queen size bed in the master bedroom and a jack-knife sofa as the other bed.

There are too many things to discuss for me to cover them all here. Floor plans are everything. Don't be overtaken by a bunch of fancy trim and fail to see basics. RV living is enjoyable but the quarters are cramped. If you'd spent time aboard ship in the Navy you'd understand about space conservation and maximizing utilization.

Remember you're buying a mobile home and a truck all in one. Check the mechanical and chassis as well as the infrastructure of the living quarters. Stains on the ceiling are bad, weak spots in the floor are as well. Plumbing both fresh water and waste water has to be scrutinized. Also, check the electrical. Make certain you know what the demand and requirements are. If you're in a 36-40 coach with dual roof air you don't want to find out as you are headed across the desert that only one of the two will run on your generator power.

When you are shopping, use your nose as well as your eyes. Odors in the living area, bathroom, and cockpit can tell you a lot. Musty odors can indicate deterioration. Motor homes don't smell like air freshener.

Drive it! Listen for wind noise through the house windows, and rattles. Some is expected, your're moving a house. Cabinet doors, room and closet doors and drawers should not swing open. Window shades and things that will move around shouldn't do so enough to distract you. Those things will drive you batty insane on a long drive.

Lastly check the exterior. The siding for years has been made of a laminate of fiberglass. Look down the exterior walls for signs of de-lamination, or bubbles or waves in the siding. It's very costly to repair the siding once is begins turning loose and once it starts it always gets worse. Check the awning, open it inspect it and check the roller tension. Awnings can catch wind and open like a sail. Be sure the one you're looking at is in good shape. Finally get up on the roof. There are several roof coatings. Check for tears, rips, and sealing around the 4000 vents, pipes and other protrusions up there. Have a look at the a/c units and the housings and the antenna/satellite dish.

Slide units are a salvation for claustrophobia. Even as little as 18 inches makes a huge difference in the living room. Check the max width for the places you're most likely to stay and don't buy a unit with wider slides than you'll be able to extend. For bedroom slides, make sure everything in the house is accessible and usable even when the slides are in. Sometimes a bathroom, closet or dresser are obstructed by a closed slider. Make sure all the works are in good shape and that the lock downs inside are in good shape. Levelers also should be checked. They should extend and retract. These things generally have springs that retract them. Having the levelers down stretches the springs. If a bus has been parked with the levelers down for a year, the springs may loose their tension and fail to fully seat the levelers in the upright position. These aren't expensive but are a PITA to replace. Tires are also very important. Most times they will dry rot before they wear out. Be sure they are all in good shape. They are expensive.

Final word, I promise. If there is anything that is in need of repair or attention, skip that unit. With the economy as it is, there are plenty of top shape units for sale. Nothing on one of these things is easy to fix. Maint. is pretty intensive as it is, without the domino effect that follows something being in disrepair. Some people buy a bus and drive it till the first problem arises. By time a symptom shows, several things have been affected. Don't buy a problem child.

An RV can be a very enjoyable second home if it's well cared for. It can also be a sucking money pit hellish chamber of torture if it's not or hasn't been. I have spent time in both situations. Feel free to let me know if you want any other or specific advice.

Happy motoring.
Steve

[Dave R.]

Originally Posted by Songman45

My folks are retired and full time RV'ers and I spent a year and a half working out of one. Diesel pushers (because the engine is in the rear) are more expensive than gasoline. There is a huge plus if you'll be driving more than parked. The engine noise and heat are major league woes for me. That's supposing you are thinking a class-A coach, rather than a class-C. Maint. costs for diesel should be checked into, those boys use gallons of oil rather than quarts and glow plugs instead of spark plugs. For decades, diesel engines had a longer life expectancy than gasoline, not really so much anymore.

No matter how many the RV will seat, they generally sleep two. Compare the bedding arrangements and how they meet your specific travel habits. Some have a queen size bed in the master bedroom and a jack-knife sofa as the other bed.

There are too many things to discuss for me to cover them all here. Floor plans are everything. Don't be overtaken by a bunch of fancy trim and fail to see basics. RV living is enjoyable but the quarters are cramped. If you'd spent time aboard ship in the Navy you'd understand about space conservation and maximizing utilization.

Remember you're buying a mobile home and a truck all in one. Check the mechanical and chassis as well as the infrastructure of the living quarters. Stains on the ceiling are bad, weak spots in the floor are as well. Plumbing both fresh water and waste water has to be scrutinized. Also, check the electrical. Make certain you know what the demand and requirements are. If you're in a 36-40 coach with dual roof air you don't want to find out as you are headed across the desert that only one of the two will run on your generator power.

When you are shopping, use your nose as well as your eyes. Odors in the living area, bathroom, and cockpit can tell you a lot. Musty odors can indicate deterioration. Motor homes don't smell like air freshener.

Drive it! Listen for wind noise through the house windows, and rattles. Some is expected, your're moving a house. Cabinet doors, room and closet doors and drawers should not swing open. Window shades and things that will move around shouldn't do so enough to distract you. Those things will drive you batty insane on a long drive.

Lastly check the exterior. The siding for years has been made of a laminate of fiberglass. Look down the exterior walls for signs of de-lamination, or bubbles or waves in the siding. It's very costly to repair the siding once is begins turning loose and once it starts it always gets worse. Check the awning, open it inspect it and check the roller tension. Awnings can catch wind and open like a sail. Be sure the one you're looking at is in good shape. Finally get up on the roof. There are several roof coatings. Check for tears, rips, and sealing around the 4000 vents, pipes and other protrusions up there. Have a look at the a/c units and the housings and the antenna/satellite dish.

Slide units are a salvation for claustrophobia. Even as little as 18 inches makes a huge difference in the living room. Check the max width for the places you're most likely to stay and don't buy a unit with wider slides than you'll be able to extend. For bedroom slides, make sure everything in the house is accessible and usable even when the slides are in. Sometimes a bathroom, closet or dresser are obstructed by a closed slider. Make sure all the works are in good shape and that the lock downs inside are in good shape. Levelers also should be checked. They should extend and retract. These things generally have springs that retract them. Having the levelers down stretches the springs. If a bus has been parked with the levelers down for a year, the springs may loose their tension and fail to fully seat the levelers in the upright position. These aren't expensive but are a PITA to replace. Tires are also very important. Most times they will dry rot before they wear out. Be sure they are all in good shape. They are expensive.

Final word, I promise. If there is anything that is in need of repair or attention, skip that unit. With the economy as it is, there are plenty of top shape units for sale. Nothing on one of these things is easy to fix. Maint. is pretty intensive as it is, without the domino effect that follows something being in disrepair. Some people buy a bus and drive it till the first problem arises. By time a symptom shows, several things have been affected. Don't buy a problem child.

An RV can be a very enjoyable second home if it's well cared for. It can also be a sucking money pit hellish chamber of torture if it's not or hasn't been. I have spent time in both situations. Feel free to let me know if you want any other or specific advice.

Happy motoring.
Steve

Thanks Steve for the time and effort you've taken to advise. I do appreciate it very much. Many of the concerns you pointed out are on my radar but a few I had not thought of. The landing gear down to long and getting on the roof for a close inspection to name a couple. We have found one we both like very much and my research indicates they are generally trouble free. Most troubles I believe are caused by our own actions and not maintaining the equipment. The only problem is the cost is a little more than budgeted so now we need to decide if we take more out of savings or keep looking. Again thanks for the thoughts.

[Steven G Webb]

Check too the MRCC (Manufaturer's Rated Carrying Capacity) and do the math against the load you'll be placing on the unit. RV makers tend to push that capacity. Sometimes there is a failure to account for the weight of both the capacity of the fresh water and waste water holding tanks, the LP fuel, plus the cargo load you'll be carrying. There have been a lot of burned up brakes or blown engines from people not understanding that just because it's a big honking bus, doesn't make it a cargo hauler.

[Greg Norrell]

Hey Dave - I spend lots of time in a 1977 Dodge Jamboree. It's clean, in good shape and everything works. It also barely gets 8 mpg. If I were looking to get one again, I would insist on getting better mileage. Getting just 12 mpg would save a lot of money.

Check for leaks. Not just the roof, but all the tanks. You wouldn't believe the scowls you'll get from a leaking sewer tank in a national park campground. A little leak in the roof when it rains is easy to fix. Getting all the tanks under the rig in good shape can be more of a challenge.

Make sure the refrigerator, the hot water heater, the water pump, and the A/C turn on. The rear batteries in most units which power the lights don't last but a few years. Make sure the lights will work without the RV being plugged in. If the lights don't work without an electrical hookup, at least get the seller to come down the price of a replacement battery. A hot water heater or a frig that no longer works is a bigger expense.

Do all the checks you'd do with a normal vehicle. Check for oil leaks on the engine, evidence of burning oil, tire wear even, etc.

If all goes well, welcome to RV life. There will be ups and downs.

[w7apd]

Hi Dave,

We have a 5th wheel rather than a motorhome, but other than the disconnect between tow vehicle and trailer there's not much difference IMO.

Diesel is by far the preferred power source for a large RV. You've already figured out that you pay more up front for a diesel. You'll also pay more for fuel, and at $4.00+ for a gallon of diesel you'll be paying more than what you gain from their better mileage. Also expect to pay 2X for maintenance vs a comparable gasser. That's just how it is with diesel; you live with it for the power and reliability.

We recently upgraded from a 1 slide RV to one with 2 slides. As with everything else, it's a tradeoff; more slides means more weight and more $$$ compared to less slides, but if you're going to spend much time on the road you'll love the added space.

Alan

[Dave R.]

Thank all of you for the comments and suggestions. I've learned much from each of you. I feel much better prepared now and confident I can get what we are looking for in the best shape possible.