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#1 |
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Vicuna
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Hi there folks,
First of all, hello and thanks to all of you for investing so much time and knowledge into an excellent source for photographers, especially beginners like me. With that in mind I almost feel guilty posting a question that has likely been posted before. I did a search of the forums but sadly turned up nothing. I just purchased a Nikon D40. I've been reading "strobist" like a Priest to a Bible for the last few days, and am thinking that for my budget (-350 bucks, now that I've bought the D40!) an off-camera flash unit with remote triggers would work best for my needs--I can always add more later. So, I've got some bungee cords and reviewed a season of MacGyver so I feel pretty confident in knowing how to attach a flash. I'm going to order some of the Gadget Infinity remote triggers, which are the Poor man's alternative to the Pocket Wizards. My last hurdle is that of a flash unit (this is where the newbie questions start a'pourin!). I don't want to spend the 200 bucks on one of the Nikon flash units, as mentioned above I'm trying to get started on a low, low budget. What would you guys reccomend in the way of flash units that would be compatible with my Nikon D40? Do I need to worry about this TTL (which near as I can gather means "Through The Lense") stuff? I know it's a light meter that is built into the camera, but with digital, you can click away and figure out decent F-stop sans light meter rather quickly, no? The way I understand it is this: You set up your flash unit off-camera to give depth to your subject. However, the TTL mode that my D40 has (I think!) only measures the light as it can see it--it will not give you an accurate light reading for an Off-camera flash. But does this matter? Just snap a few photographs until you dial it in, right? Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I sincerely apologize if these questions have already been asked and are right under my nose! Regards Craig __________________
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#2 |
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Photocamel Master
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"TTL Flash" refers to metering flash through the lens to determine correct flash exposure. It still works for digital, but albeit not the same as it did with film. With film, the camera could measure flash coming through the lens off of the film emulsion during the exposure and cut off the flash power when done. With digital, the coatings on the sensor and on the antialiasing/hot mirror filter over the sensor prevent the camera from accurately metering during the exposure, so the camera fires a small flash before the picture is taken to determine how much flash is needed, then fires a big flash during the exposure.
Upon squeezing the shutter release, Nikon's i-TTL works as follows: 1. Small preflash which the camera interprets for the correct flash exposure ("Small flash") 2. Mirror goes up, diaphragm closes down 3. Shutter opens 4. Flash fires for exposure ("Big Flash") 5. Shutter closes 6. Mirror goes down, diaphragm opens up. |
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__________________
-Michael Nikon V1 (Black), Nikon V1 (White), Nikon J1/WP-N1 (Red) , Nikon Coolpix AW100 (Orange) and Apple iPhone 4 (White) Find me on the web: Michael Chen Photo |Blog ("coming soon" since before the dinosaurs roamed the Earth)|SportsShooter | California Wildlife |
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#3 |
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Vicuna
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Thanks, Michael, that explained it a lot more clearly then other sources I had found!
Does that mean that I HAVE to use an iTTL-compatible flash for my Nikon? Or can I use the manual setting to control the flash output and have Bob as my uncle? (what an awkward turn of phrase!) Thanks again, Cheers Craig |
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#4 |
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Photocamel Master
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No, you don't have to use an i-TTL compatible flash, but they work pretty well in most situations.
The Vivitar 285HV is a decent choice for $90, offers manual output control, and has a fairly accurate automatic mode (sensor on the flash itself). Unfortunately, Vivitar uses a proprietary PC sync connection for the flash itself, so you might have trouble attaching cheaper radio triggers. |
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__________________
-Michael Nikon V1 (Black), Nikon V1 (White), Nikon J1/WP-N1 (Red) , Nikon Coolpix AW100 (Orange) and Apple iPhone 4 (White) Find me on the web: Michael Chen Photo |Blog ("coming soon" since before the dinosaurs roamed the Earth)|SportsShooter | California Wildlife |
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#6 |
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Alpaca
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I have a D80 and suggest you buy either a Nikon SB600 if you need to do some off camera wireless shooting. It's a little large though for using as a walk-around flash.
I picked up a Nikon SB400. Nice. Smaller lighter and eliminates the shadow when using a wide angle lens such as the 18-135 or a 17-55. $135.00 |
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#7 |
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Vicuna
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Well, a windfall of good cards in a poker game netted me the cash I needed for a SB600, and I am impressed! Even though the D40 doesn't support TTL, it's still a hell of a flash that I can grow into. As it stands, coupled with a better bounce card, the versatility of my little D40 is impressive!
And, I got a pretty good deal on it from the local camera shop so no complaints from a very happy camper ![]() Cheers Craig |
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#8 | |
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Photocamel Master
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Quote:
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__________________
-Michael Nikon V1 (Black), Nikon V1 (White), Nikon J1/WP-N1 (Red) , Nikon Coolpix AW100 (Orange) and Apple iPhone 4 (White) Find me on the web: Michael Chen Photo |Blog ("coming soon" since before the dinosaurs roamed the Earth)|SportsShooter | California Wildlife |
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#9 |
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Alpaca
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#10 |
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Vicuna
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Well that's interesting (and explains a lot)--the guy at the camera store said it wouldn't, I'm glad to hear otherwise. Bonus
![]() Cheers and thanks, Craig __________________
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