Teleconverters

[Girevik]

I'm considering getting a teleconverter for use with my D70, but I know nothing about them. Does anyone have a resource for information on them, or could recomend one?

[badpickev]

the kenko pro series is a good choice. the sigma converters work with sigma hsm and nikon af-s lenses only.

[Girevik]

Will the Kenko work with more lenses?

Just to demonstrate my totoal ignorace: Do the converters with a larger factor have a greater impact on the f-stop? In other words, will I lose more stops with a 2x than a 1.4?

[Horse Photog]

With a 2X teleconverter, a f2.8 becomes a f5.6. With a 1.4 teleconverter, f2.8 becomes f4.

[cyclohexane]

The teleconverters made by Nikon that are currently in production are the TC-14E II, TC-17E II, and the TC-20E II. The TC-14E and TC-20E (no II) are out of production, but are optically identical to the II versions. These can only mount on AF-S Nikkors (without modification) with recessed rear elements, i.e. the 70-200mm f/2.8G AF-S VR, 300mm f/2.8D AF-S, etc.

With the 1.4 converter, you lose 1 stop (f/2.8 to f/4). With the 1.7 converter, you lose ~1.5 stops (f/2.8 to f/4.8 ). With the 2 converter, you lose two stops (f/2.8 to f/5.6).

[Girevik]

If it matters, here are the lenses I have:

Nikon AF-S 18-70mm 1:35-4.5G ED (can't imagine I'd use the converter with this)
Nikkon 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 G (could use the converter with this depending on lighting)
Vivitar 28-210mm 1:3.5-5.6 (since this is the faster lens, I'd probably tend to use it with this, but am unsure if it will work)

[Nikonfreak]

Unlikely you'd get a converter to work on any of those lenses for a variety of reasons.

Two words of caution, teleconverters degrade the image (After all, you're sticking yet another couple of pieces of glass in between your sensor and the subject as well as another pocket of air. Secondly, the lenses that are not parafocal (meaning they move in and out physically of the casing of the lens or get longer if you zoom them) may have rear elements that could bump the teleconverter or grind into it so there's a potential for damage depending on the lens you try to mount it to.

Michael gave you the run down on the current lineup of Nikon teleconverters. I use the Nikon 1.7x teleconverter with the 70-200 f/2.8 VR and the 300 f/2.8 AF-S VR lenses and that's about it.

Kenko's are pretty generic and may work with some lenses and may not work with others. Nikon's will work with Nikon AF-S lenses, but won't work with all of them necessarily depending on which lens it is. (No sense in mounting a TC to an 18-70 for example). Sigma's TC's will work with Sigma lenses and only some of those ... the Sigma web site lists what lenses work with teleconverters.

Whatever the multiplier factor is, multiply that times the aperature of the lens and you'll get the resulting aperature of your "new" lens with the converter mounted.

For example. My 70-200 f/2.8 would become a 140-400 f/5.6 lens with a 2.0x teleconverter on it. That means that f/5.6 is the fastest (wide open) aperature I can use with the converter mounted on it. On a sunny, bright day, that might not be an issue but if I want a shallow depth of field, starting at f/5.6 isn't giving me great flexiblity for a shallow DOF like the f/2.8 option.

Hope this helps a little to de-mystify teleconverters.

Julio

www.pbase.com/loansharkx

[cyclohexane]

Unlikely you'd get a converter to work on any of those lenses for a variety of reasons.

Yup. I wouldn't put a TC on those lenses. Only one of them would actually fit a Nikon TC, and it'd still get damaged. IMHO, save the teleconverters for the telephoto primes- they'll perform the best with them.


That said, I have used the old TC-20E with success on my 70-200mm f/2.8. Good technique goes a long way towards sharpness, but you're still degrading the image significantly. Any defects in your lens are magnified; for example, the 70-200 flares quite a bit at the long end, and at 400mm with the TC-20E attached I sometimes can hardly see any contrast in the viewfinder at all. Here's a sample image from that combo which has recieved a liberal application of unsharp mask:

[soxOZ]

Hi...

There are a couple of things you have to take into account with TC...

First is if you plan on getting and using Nikon TC's, they will only work on lens with AF-S, so any lens without AF-S will not work, as they do not have a screw drive connection between the camera and lens.
So to use a TC on NON AF-S lenses, you will need to get a Kenko, Sigma or Tamron versions that have the screw drive. All the metering and focusing will work with these TC's on both the AF-S and non AF-S lenses.

Secondly, the more multiplication you put on the worst your IQ will be. I have found using the Kenko 1.4x PRO300 DG TC, that I haven't any noticeable loss in IQ, and even up to 1.7x they seem to work well, but most of the shots I've seen with the 2x TC loose a lot in IQ or get soft.

Also using them on anything with more than f/2.8 will require that you have a lot of light, as you stop down the lens start you may then have trouble with either getting enough shutter speed for the length of the lens, or there won't be enough light for you AF to work correctly.

--------------------------------------------------
Nikon AF-S 18-70mm 1:35-4.5G ED
Nikkon 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 G
Vivitar 28-210mm 1:3.5-5.6
--------------------------------------------------

None of these lenses are ideal for using a TC, but that is not to say that you can't use them. I had tried my 1.4x TC on a friends 70-300G to see what it would be like and we were surprised at the IQ we got.

I originally got the Kenko 1.4x to fit to my Nikon 80-200 f/2.8, but shortly after getting it was trying it on my other lenses to see what results I got. Other than the 80-200, the best results I got from it was on my Nikon 50 f/1.8, and these were superb...

These are some samples (which have been heavily reduced for posting)....

Nikon D50 Nikon 70-300f4-5.6 with Kenko 1.4x @ 300mm (=630mm) 1/200 ISO200

[img width=800 height=531]http://www.fotothing.com/photos/3a1/3a1e31792a101945f435cf7a9cb4ca35_30d.jpg[/img]

Nikon D80 Nikon 50f/1.8 + Kenko 1.4x TC @ 1/500sec, f/5.6 EV0.0, ISO100

[img width=800 height=535]http://static.flickr.com/115/285593924_0be9ce2279_b.jpg[/img]

Nikon D80 Nikon 50f/1.8 + Kenko 1.4x TC @ 1/1600sec, f/5.6 EV0.0, ISO100

[img width=800 height=535]http://static.flickr.com/119/285593922_a1a56987c9_b.jpg[/img]

Hope this has helped....

[FocusingOnFlorida]

I am not using Nikon Equipment but the same happens across the line of manufacturers. I have the Canon prime 400mmL 5.6. This is a great and very capable lens. I do have a Tamron Pro 1.4 X TC and had to tape the pins to get AF to work. It still hunted quite a bit. I would not recommend a TC on a slower lens such as this. I have the 70-200 f2.8 an the TC works like a charm. I wouldn't even know it was there.

I had a 2X TC I used with my old manual equipment that I picked up in St. Thomas back in the 80's. On that camera and lens combo, I didn't notice much of a difference because everything was manual. I recently purchased a Sigma 120-300 f.28 and bought the Kenko 2X TC. It will in effect get me 600 mm f5.6 or 420mm f4.0. 420 4.0 beats the 400 5.6 that I currently own. Therefore the 400mm went on the market to offset the cost of the new lens. You will definitely be required to hold your camera much steadier as it will also magnify lens shake.

[Girevik]

(*sigh*) Thus another dream dies. Oh well, thanks for the info everyone.

Originally Posted by soxOZ

Secondly, the more multiplication you put on the worst your IQ will be.

Well, I SURELY can't afford to sacrifice any more IQ points. I'm dumb enough as it is, especially when it comes to photography.

[FocusingOnFlorida]

Just incase you were not kidding, IQ is Image Quality in this case. :

[Nikonfreak]

Originally Posted by FocusingOnFlorida

Just incase you were not kidding, IQ is Image Quality in this case. :

Aww man... you blew it for me. I thought it was how smart my lens was!