Any experience with Readyload/Quickload systems?

[Latinbob]

I just ordered a Polaroid 545 back for my 4x5 camera, in order to shoot some Polaroid film to get the hang of how the camera operates. In doing research, I found that I can use the Fuji and Kodak quickload systems. Has anyone had any experience using these types of films? It seems a lot easier to manage than individual sheets, especially for color. I can develop B&W at home easily, but the color was going to be a challenge, and this may solve that I hope!

thanks for any input!
Bob

[kgphoto]

It is pretty straight forward, but kind of expensive. Just learn to use the film holders. You have to insert something anyway. It is all about the journey.

[Latinbob]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm ok with using the film holders, so that wasn't my main reason for asking. I think they would be handy for taking them in for processing, since you would just hand over the sealed envelopes instead of having to put them in boxes and hope the lab doesn't mess them up. I guess there is risk in either case.

How about the so-called film flatness issues?

Bob

[kgphoto]

Never seen a problem with film flatness. I don't shoot wide open, so YMMV. Sinar used to sell a 1 sheet film hold that held the film to extremely tight tolerances. I think the holder cost $400.00. I don't remember ever seeing one on a job.

I send my film to the lab in a film box, with a sticker on all parts that says return this box to name/phone #.

They are convenient, but you pay for it.

[Latinbob]

That's good to hear about the flatness issue. I do this for fun anyway, so my tolerance is fairly high!

Out of curiosity, how much does a lab in your area charge to develop sheet film (C-41 and E-6)? I've been able to do all my 120 color and B&W film at home, but I think the color LF stuff will need to be sent off. It may be a little beyond my abilities at this point.

Bob

[kgphoto]

Sheet film is even easier to process at home as long as you don't mind standing in the dark.

$2.50/sheet for E6 & C-41 and $1.00 more for a push pull.

$3.00/sheet for 45 B/W

Easier to load in holders and just dip and dunk, photo flow or DI water and hang till dry.

I really like using the 4x5 Type 55 Polaroid film that gives you a print and a negative. Just wash in daylight with water and you are done.

NOTE:
IMPORTANT NOTICE for our 665 Film customers -- January 2006

Polaroid does not recommend clearing the negative in water if it is to be saved for any length of time.

Clearing in sodium sulfite is the recommended procedure:

To clear the negative for reuse, immerse it in sulfite solution and agitate gently for 30-60 seconds or longer (if desired) within three minutes after development. Sodium sulfite powder is readily available from professional photographic supply dealers and chemical supply houses. Mix in the following proportions:

• Sodium sulfite powder: 440 grams or 16 oz. (weight) (anhydrous/desiccated)
• Warm water: 2 liter or 70-fl. oz.
  
  Slowly add the powder to the water; stir continuously until all powder is dissolved. Allow to cool to approximately 70°F (21°C) before using. Store the solution in brown, well-sealed bottles or in a tank with a floating lid.

The solution can be used in trays (with emulsion side up) or in deep film tanks. Put each negative through individually, or use clip-type film hangers such as the Kodak #6 hanger. Insert each negative carefully and keep the negatives from touching each other. Remove tabs and back coat material. Negative must be cleared of residual developer layer and opaque backcoat. Negative may remain in the solution for up to 72 hours.

Wash for 5 minutes in running water. For urgent use, 30 seconds will do; rewash later for permanence. Avoid scratching the negatives by keeping them away from each other and from the sides of the container. Excessive washing may weaken the emulsion.

To avoid drying marks, use a wetting agent (such as Kodak Photo-Flo diluted at least 1:600). Follow the manufacturer's instructions for use.

Hang up with commercially available film clips, hangers, clothespins, etc. Do not dry with excessive heat. Avoid dusty areas.

Coating and care of prints

Prints must be coated immediately after development to protect them against scratching and fading. Use the print coater packed in the plastic tube. Keep freshly coated prints separate from each other until they are thoroughly dry. Keep the coater fluid away from skin, clothing, furniture.

[Latinbob]

Thanks for the additional info. My "darkroom" is my laundry room, and I don't have access to running water or a sink, so that's why I'm not sure about the color stuff, since it is more temperature sensitive. I have a large Rubbermaid tub I set on the kitchen sink when I do daylight developing, and I doubt I can carry it into the laundry room full of 100 degree water! I have a daylight tank for sheet film, and I'll probably try it with color anyway. It just takes so much dang developer! Tray developing is more economical for me, and B&W is easy. I have done that in the laundry room with no problems.

I think everyone needs to try home developing at least once. It sure makes one appreciate the simplicity of digital!

Bob

[kgphoto]

How can you not have running water in a laundry room? Re-think that. You don't need temperature controlled running water. If you slowly mix from the hot to the cold you will be fine. You can alway wash in the kitchen anyway.

There are aquarium heaters and ever drywall mud heaters to temper your water baths.

The daylight tank thing is something I have never experimented with. A caution about tray developing, many people try to squeeze out too much and ruin the film. Better to have lots of cheap developer than lose precious time and images.

One of our local labs was famous for scratching film, so I either sent it to a "real" pro house or did it myself.

Yeah digital, but it still doesn't compare to large format prints.