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#1 |
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Alpaca
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Hello!
My name is Courtney and I really need some advice. I've been working on my photography in my spare time for 3 years. I’ve been hired by my friend to do some event photography for a tea party in two weeks. It will be indoors with incandescent lighting and candlelight. (And these two hideously low hanging HUGE pendant lamps that seem to be about 40 watts.) The ceilings are 13-15 ft tall and they’re white. Here’s what I have in my bag: Canon EOS 20D (max ISO of 1600) Canon EF 50 mm 1:1.8 .45m/1.5 ft Canon EFS 18055mm 1:3.5-5.6 Sigma 55-200 mm 1:4-5.6 Speedlite 580Ex11 flash And a generic tripod. Here’s my problem. The tea party won’t start until 4:30 and it’s in NYC. That means I have at most 15 minutes of natural light before the sun sinks down below the buildings around me and I’m basically shooting indoors at night. On top of that, I went to the venue and it's really dark. I haven't had any experience shooting in this kind of light and I'm really concerned that I'm going to ruin it. I would really appreciate any tips, tricks or lens recommendations you have. I plan on buying a diffusion dome for my flash as well as an flash bracket. I’m also looking for a faster lens that allows me to get more light to the sensor so that I can take sharper photos. I plan on renting lenses for this event since I can't afford a new one and there are several places in Chelsea I can rent from. I would really appreciate any and all help you can give me. Thank you very much! __________________
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#2 | |
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Former Camel
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that's an interesting gig to sink your teeth into! The way I see it you would need much more light. I would set up 3 or 4 580EXs on their own tripods, pointing straight up, bouncing off the ceiling, remotely triggered by another 580EX on-camera that also provides fill (to prevent raccoon eyes; so set it at 1/4 output power). I would forget about that diffuser dome since it is worse than useless in anything but very confined, reflective spaces: it will waste 3/4 of your flash gun's output in the other directions, horribly reduce your DoF, and not soften its shadows at all. It is far too small for that. Get your soft light via that big white ceiling! Of course you shoot RAW? Avoid wide angle if you can, because that affects faces and bodies with very UNflattering perspective distortion. Around 80 or 100mm is most flattering. You can try to catch some of the ambient light by using a slow shutter speed of, say, 1/30th sec, if you use 400 or 800 ISO. I wouldn't go slower than 1/30th, when shooting animated people (with flash light). Shoot test shots on location asap to find out how viable that is. Because if it is not, you can dispense with slow shutter speeds altogether, avoid their drawbacks, simply set X-sync speed, and concentrate on using the (bounced) flash light best. Have fun! |
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#3 |
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Camel Breath
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And if you use Take12's method, I would add that you should set and use a custom white balance, to accommodate the light reflecting off the walls that may not be white.
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#4 | |||||
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Alpaca
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Thank you so much! I've been worried sick no one would be able to help me.
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Thank you so much for you help! ![]() |
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#5 |
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Alpaca
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You can successfully bounce your flash in situations like this - you'll be amazed at how well those little flashes will light up a room with white ceilings. It will use a decent amount of flash power, so bring lots of batteries. If you shoot with your 50 1.8 at 800 ISO, you'll have plenty of flash power to get nicely lit shots at f/1.8-4.5ish... I shot a wedding with very similar conditions recently, and my assistant was shooting with her 40d/50 1.4 and bouncing her flash. A battery pack is ideal so you don't have to change batteries and you'll get faster recycle times, but if you don't want to buy anything new, you'll be OK as you are. If you DO use a battery pack, be careful of shooting too much/too fast - the 580ex II will turn itself off if it gets too hot. You can experiment with using your flash in manual mode if you want to get a bit more advanced, but ETTL will usually work OK.
And, needless to say, practice this technique beforehand in similar conditions if at all possible! Check this out for more on using your flash this way... |
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#6 |
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Llama
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You raised some good questions on this post. I would be interested in seeing the outcome.
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__________________
C&C always welcome and appreciated. "Dreaming.... of that one fantastic image, so I can make another one!" |
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#7 | ||||
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Former Camel
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Of course.
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#8 | |
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Guanaco
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But, you could utilise the free 30 days trial of elements and use that to convert the RAW files. However, there must be other programs that would do the trick. And don't forget... On the night, ENJOY yourself!! |
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__________________
Honest C&C always appreciated
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#9 |
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Guanaco
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Canon has a utility pack that includes software for manipulation of RAW files. I don't generally use it myself but if you don't have it you might want to take a look - it's a free download from Canon.
Try this link: EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - EOS Digital SLR Cameras - EOS 35mm SLR Cameras - Lenses - Flashes - EOS 20D - Canon USA Consumer Products |
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__________________
Fred 5D MK II, 40D w/Grip, 30D, XH-A1, EF 70-200L 2.8 IS, EF 24-70L 2.8, EF 28-135 IS USM Kit, EF 50 1.4 USM, EF 70-300 4-5.6 IS USM, 580EXII, 430EX, Alzo Flash Bracket, Assorted Filters |
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#10 |
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Guanaco
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After using the link enter your computer operating system and you should get the software download links for the 20D.
__________________
Members don't see ads in threads. Register your free account today and become a member on PhotoCamel - Your Friendly Photo Forum, gaining access to posting privileges, contests, free plug-ins and other downloads, unlimited online storage for your photographs, reviews, free marketplace listings, and much more. |
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__________________
Fred 5D MK II, 40D w/Grip, 30D, XH-A1, EF 70-200L 2.8 IS, EF 24-70L 2.8, EF 28-135 IS USM Kit, EF 50 1.4 USM, EF 70-300 4-5.6 IS USM, 580EXII, 430EX, Alzo Flash Bracket, Assorted Filters |
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