What light modifier would you choose?

[harryb49]

I often need to shoot outdoors in the sunlight and have the obvious issues with a too bright a sun to contend with. I have used fill flash, a Canon EX 580II, a White Lightning monolight, both with and without an umbrella, and also a "door" sized piece of white nylon (about 30" by 72") that is stretched between pvc pipe.

My best results have been with the white diffusion from the nylon but putting it together is a real pain. Is there a better way? A better diffusion device?

I'm looking forward to hearing what tools and techniques work best under these conditions.



Thanks,
Harry

[Ed Shapiro]

Hi Harry!

If you like the results you are getting with a large white reflector, all you need is a different kind of reflector that is more easily set up- more convenient. There are many reflector systems available that open up like photo umbrellas but are flat. Try to look up Larsen Manufacturing Co. for what the call their "Reflectasol" line. Theses, at one time, were available in larger sizes in white, silver, super-silver and black for go-bo usage.

There are many systems which are built around a collapsible ABS frames whereby the cloth reflectors and scrims stretch around the frames, like a fitted bed sheet.

There are also light weight materials such as Foamcor(tm) and Corplast(tm) that you can can use fashion a home made reflector system.

Also- Look up Rosco photographic products- that are handled by cine photographic suppliers and some photo dealers. The have a material called Roscoflex which are plastic fabrics that come in a multitude of various reflective surfaces that can be rolled up for transport and mounted on a light weight support.

A sturdy light stand and a heavy weight is required because large surfaces can pick up wind *like a Sail) and tip over- an assistant to man the reflector will preclude the weight.

For action shooting such as news or wedding photography, flash is a more practical in direct sunlight conditions. A battery operated portable mounted on the camera with a small light modifier or a bare bulb, set one or two f/stops below the sunlight reading will yield good results provided the exposures are correct.

I hope this helps. Ed

[Brooks]

Ed,

Harry's had the most success with a large diffusion panel, not a reflector.

And a large silk or diffusion panel, (not a scrim which doesn't change the quality of the light, just the intensity) is the best way to tame direct sunlight and produce a pleasing soft light with a usable dynamic range.

The problem with a PVC framed 32x70 silk is that the PVC frame is not stiff enough, the fabric's not attached securely, and 32"x70" is too small for anything other than a single head and shoulder portrait.

A better choice is the Lastolite Skylite diffusion panel and frame. The Skylite is shock-corded, 6.5 ft square ALUMINUM frame that breaks down for easy carrying. The silk that comes with the frame has a velcro flap around its perimeter which attaches around the frame and allows the fabric to be stretched taught and securely attached to the frame.

You'll need an assistant, stands and sandbags to use it outside but the results are well worth the effort. You can find it here Lastolite Limited, Manufacturer of On-Location Lighting Control Solutions. and B&H also sells Lastolite products.

[Ed Shapiro]

Thanks Brooks! I guess my reading comprehension is worsening with age. The Lastolite system is great, I actually have one in my equipment closet and use it in the studio as well as on location- I picked it up on my last visit home at B&H.

If Harry wants to go on the home made side there are many densities and gages of frosted material in the Rosco line as well. I use so many scrims on some of my food and jewelry jobs that I made a bunch out of picture frame stretcher bars and rolls of the Rosco stuff. Theses, however, are not really convenient for transporting to outdoor locations. I can create all kinds of multiple layers of diffusion or build any kind of translucent tent with just a bit of rudimentary carpentry- some small door hinges, wooden braces, C-clamps or just using my electric stapler.

It seems that every time I get an outdoor location job, there is enough wind to make things difficult. I've taken to keeping, in my car a few sand for extreme cases, I have a heavy Mathews stand fitted with a cement block. An assistant is a more economical and better idea when I think about all the money I may have to spend on a hernia operation. or the lawsuit that will arise from on of my airborne reflectors/scrims decapitating someone.

Thanks again for the heads up on the scrim gear.

Ed

[JohnC]

Well, to add another "reading" to this, I thought that Harry was using the diffusion panel for the flash, not to soften the sun.

But in agreement about the size/flexibility/wind issues.

[harryb49]

I'm sorry that my question was not clear. I actually left it open to be either solution: 1- A good diffusion device to lessen the sun's rays, or 2 - A better method of fill flash.

For a small area I think the diffusion may be a good solution but don't know which of the many options would be best for me. I have constructed a pvc frame and use a piece of ripstop nylon as the diffusion material. It works pretty well but requires an assistant most of the time as the winds would blow it over. It also leaves the problem of the background being lighter than the subject and I don't care for that effect.

Where I need to shoot a portrait of a small group in sunlight then I feel that a flash option may be the better choice as the diffusion frame would have to be huge to cover the entire group. In that case I lean towards using a fill flash solution.

I am asking for suggestions that would solve the problem of shooting portraits in the sun, be reasonably priced, be easy to use, be highly portable, pack into relatively small bag, and, of course, make my photographs look awesome (which may require some magic). The following image uses both a diffusion screen and a little fill flash.

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/r...15944R_nn2.jpg

[Ed Shapiro]

I guess the reason I misunderstood the question is that I could not relate to the method of using diffused flash and and sunlight in the manner that was explained- I don't find that is an effective method.

If you are going to use sunlight as a main light source in portraiture the shooting tie should be in the later afternoon when the sun is low enough to act as a traditional main light- providing some kind of portrait light pattern and shadow detail and catch lights in the eyes. Since you can not move the light as you would in the studio, you need to move the subject to accommodate the lighting. In the example image there is no real lighting on the mask if the subject's face. A simple reflector or a delicately applied flash fill will work to cerate a good system for outdoor portraiture.

One of my favorite methods is to use the sun as a back or kicker light and create my portrait lighting by using a reflector or off camera electronic flash unit to create the desired portrait lighting. In this case a raw light, bare bulb or a flash unit equipped with an umbrella or sift box. Trying to control a flash unit with a separate scrim would probably be clumsy and slow working. If the subject can be illuminated by directional raw sunlight with a large scrim can work if the scrim is large enough to envelop the subject in soft light.

I try to avoid high noon sunlight as much as I can. I use black gobos or natural overhangs and do subtractive lighting. Overhead lighting yields a very poor lighting with overly lighted foreheads, raccoon eyes and unnatural shadows washing down the face.

In my opinion, it is not so much a matter of the equipment so I am suggesting simpler methodologies.

I hope this helps.. if not, I tried! Ed

[Brooks]

Originally Posted by Ed Shapiro

If the subject can be illuminated by directional raw sunlight with a large scrim can work if the scrim is large enough to envelop the subject in soft light.

This is how I thought the OP was using the silk, to diffuse hard sunlight. Maybe we all misunderstood the question to some degree?

[sananjana]

Nice info thanks for sharing.....

[Mike_e]

HarryB49, why don't you try building another diffuser the same size and clipping them together(ball bungees work too) and then using your strobe or even flash to shoot through for the fill?

See Software Cinema: Photoshop and Design Training - Photoshop Tutorials and Tips
and download the PDF- (it's free) for ideas on the clips though you might want to use a different glue on them. Also some good ideas on weights.

For ease of use try running some parachute cord through the piping and attach some large bungees too so that the bungee and cords are in a loop. when you want to put them together you just let the bungee cord pull it together most of the way and off you go! An added benefit is that the cord running through it keeps it in order so you don't have to figure out which piece goes where.

best of luck.



P.S. you can use a wire coat hanger to pull the parachute cord through the last piece to tension it.