Light meter

[Seabee]

I am ripping my hair out!!!!

I just bought a lightmeter. I am experimenting reading reflected and incident light.

I dont think there is anything wrong with the meter, but the readings are so very different when i take the one... then the other.....

How far away from the thing being measured should I stand?

Thanks
Chris

[Rense]

Chris,
That difference is normal.

*For incident metering distance to subject = 0 + don't stand in the path to the camera or cast shadows

*for reflected metering: distance to subject = distance subject to camera.

Here is a classical reference from Kodak, read it and learn it by heart.

[blumesan]

Originally Posted by Rense

Chris,
Here is a classical reference from Kodak, read it and learn it by heart.

Rense-
That is a classic reference. I have had it in my files for years. It should be read and understood by everyone whether or not they use a hand-held meter.

Cheers/Mike

[Rense]

so true Mike.

[mcbit]

Nice reference Rense! Although I am familiar with most of the concepts in the text it is nice to have all in one place. Recommended reading!

[deluco]

The manual tells you how to use the meter, including for reading incident and reflective readings.

[gaopa2]

Thanks, Rense, for the post on using the light meter properly! Cheers, Bill P.

[dffrantiask]

Thanks Rense for the info.
Don

[spiderfm]

Thank you so much

[Tareq]

Just wish if it is translated into my language

[blumesan]

Originally Posted by Tareq

Just wish if it is translated into my language

I think you will find it is written in very clear, simple and non-technical language. Give it a try.

[Rense]

Originally Posted by Tareq

Just wish if it is translated into my language

try to read it. If you have questions: ask!

[Tareq]

Originally Posted by blumesan

I think you will find it is written in very clear, simple and non-technical language. Give it a try.

Originally Posted by Rense

try to read it. If you have questions: ask!

OK, you beat me to it

In fact i didn't read it as i saw it that long and thought it will be so technical phrases and statements that i will confuse more, but if you say that then yes, i will give it a try and read it, and hope you will answer heaps of questions after that

[Tareq]

Oh i forgot to say, i prefer if many of articles like these coming with photos and images samples, it will make things easier even while reading, sometimes there are things can't be explained better than what is written already, but if that simple clear article will make me to have something difficult still then what much simpler or easier can be said.

Is there any Full DVD about using light meter only, not those DVD about lighting only where maybe some will not explain the light meter so detailed, you are English language people can understand it much faster in seconds more than us which may take hours to understand 5 minutes talking even by watching, so that i hope to get a DVD about light meters only [even if used for lights but not only studio lights].

[Benji]

Originally Posted by Seabee

I am ripping my hair out!!!!

I just bought a lightmeter. I am experimenting reading reflected and incident light.

I dont think there is anything wrong with the meter, but the readings are so very different when i take the one... then the other.....

How far away from the thing being measured should I stand?

Thanks
Chris

To take an incident reading make sure the ISO is set at the ISO you have the camera set at then point the dome of the meter toward the light while holding it as close to whatever you are taking the image of and push the button. Transfer that reading to your camera which is set on manual mode. The shutter speed and aperture can be changed if you want a different one. Usually as you change the one the other will automatically change also. Any of those readings will be properly exposed.

Benji

[blumesan]

Originally Posted by Seabee

I am ripping my hair out!!!!

I just bought a lightmeter. I am experimenting reading reflected and incident light.
I dont think there is anything wrong with the meter, but the readings are so very different when i take the one... then the other.....
Thanks
Chris

Follow Benji's intructions for taking an incident reading.

Do not be upset if your reflected reading differs from the incident reading. The reflected reading depends greatly on where the meter is pointed and how large is its acceptance angle. If you measure reflectance close up to a white shirt, you would not expect to get the same reading as close up to a black velvet drape, and neither would be the same as the incident reading.

With reflectance metering (other than spot meters), the measurement is generally an average of everything the meter can see.

In any case, regardless of what kind of meter you use you cannot rely on getting the proper exposure by blindly transferring the meter readings to your camera. You also need to engage the computer between your ears, and that computer is best programmed by experience.

Cheers, and hang in there.

PS Read the article from Kodak, suggested by Rense.

[Tareq]

Originally Posted by blumesan

Follow Benji's intructions for taking an incident reading.

Do not be upset if your reflected reading differs from the incident reading. The reflected reading depends greatly on where the meter is pointed and how large is its acceptance angle. If you measure reflectance close up to a white shirt, you would not expect to get the same reading as close up to a black velvet drape, and neither would be the same as the incident reading.

With reflectance metering (other than spot meters), the measurement is generally an average of everything the meter can see.

In any case, regardless of what kind of meter you use you cannot rely on getting the proper exposure by blindly transferring the meter readings to your camera. You also need to engage the computer between your ears, and that computer is best programmed by experience.

Cheers, and hang in there.

PS Read the article from Kodak, suggested by Rense.

This is what we think we must do, just take readings from your light meter and set your camera and thats it, but in fact i was looking to make vise versa, i mean if i am looking for fixed specific settings or reading on camera but the light meter telling me something else, then in this case i will never have my own settings i want for some reason, but after many many questions i got some answers telling me that it is not must, i just set the light power to my desire setings or reading, as i thought i must fix the ight power and distance and i just play with my camera setings ragarding to the light meter readings which is not always what i look for even if it is a proper exposure.

[Benji]

Sorry guys, but for about 25 years I have been "blindly transferring my meter readings to my camera" and have NEVER had a problem EXCEPT when photographing stained glass. The reflective meter inside the camera is PERFECT for stained glass but for everything else it is worthless in my opinion.

Benji

[blumesan]

Originally Posted by Benji

Sorry guys, but for about 25 years I have been "blindly transferring my meter readings to my camera" and have NEVER had a problem EXCEPT when photographing stained glass. The reflective meter inside the camera is PERFECT for stained glass but for everything else it is worthless in my opinion.

Benji

I am confused by your comment. If the reflective meter in your camera is worthless (except for stained glass), then presumably the same would apply to a hand held reflective meter. Thus, contrary to your blanket statement above, I would conclude that you do not blindly transfer such reflective readings to your camera. (My hunch is that you do not use reflective readings at all, except perhaps for stained glass)

On the other hand, incident readings, especially those taken in studios with controlled lighting, can be used directly with little or any "adjustment" by the computer between your ears. Nevertheless, the following quote, referring to incident metering, is from the Kodak white paper cited above by Rense:

However, if the main subject is very light or very
dark, and you want to record detail in this area, you must
modify the meter’s exposure recommendations as follows:

• For light subjects,

decrease exposure by 1¤2 to 1 stop from the meter reading.

• For dark subjects,

increase exposure by 1¤2 to 1 stop from the meter reading.

[Benji]

Originally Posted by blumesan

I am confused by your comment. If the reflective meter in your camera is worthless (except for stained glass), then presumably the same would apply to a hand held reflective meter. Thus, contrary to your blanket statement above, I would conclude that you do not blindly transfer such reflective readings to your camera. (My hunch is that you do not use reflective readings at all, except perhaps for stained glass)

On the other hand, incident readings, especially those taken in studios with controlled lighting, can be used directly with little or any "adjustment" by the computer between your ears. Nevertheless, the following quote, referring to incident metering, is from the Kodak white paper cited above by Rense:

Don't presume anything. The reflective meter inside the camera is virtually worthless except for reading the light coming through a stained glass window IMHO. The hand held incident meter is nearly fool proof. Set the ISO in the meter the exact same as the ISO you have set in your camera, aim the dome at the main light source, press the button, transfer those readings to the camera.

Benji