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#1 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Hi
I have a Question about the best way to setup lights and the model in the studio and how to get the background as white as possible and not gray, also the shots are full length head to toe. With some close up, they are modeling a line of clothing. My first photos were at 1/80 and F8. And the background was gray. I tried adding my SB800 to light the background what a mistake as now the histogram moved to the right and everything turned over exposed and white. Hair detail gone. Big round white circle from the flash on the background. Without the flash they look better but there is a shadow and also gray/off white background. Equipment 1. Nikon D300 2. Sekonic L358 Light meter 3. 2 - Elinchrome BX400 lights 4. 2 - Umbrellas for above 105cm white (black on outside) 5. Backdrop with White Seamless I have set them up with 1 light to the left of the model bouncing into the umbrella (setting low 3.5 if I recall) about 45 degrees to model 2nd one is beside me and to the right of the model and pointing at the model set at higher value (5) The modeling lights are set to Proportional (so they increase with Strobe setting) Question how far should I be from the model and how far should they be from the background. I am using a Nikon D300 set at ISO L1 (equal to ISO100) shooting at about F8-11 and 1/80 or 1/125. __________________
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Eero Makela Photographies des femmes pour les hommes. ========== To see the light you have to understand the light, but to understand the light you have to see the light. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Not exactly one answer to fix what you are trying to do. If you just want something quick and dirty (and no guarantees on the white back ground) go back to the basics.
Subject about five to six feet from backdrop Reset the camera to ISO200 - forget about L1 Now set your Sekonic for ISO200 and a shutter speed of 1/125 in the flash mode and connect to the main light Move the main light about the same distance from the subject as it is long. Take a reading with the Sekonic. Adjust the main light settings until you get the desired f/stop you are looking for (maybe f/ .Move the fill light out from subject about eight to ten feet. Then laterally just a bit towards the main. Connect the Sekonic to that light and meter for 1 to 2 stops below what your main is. (if you used f/8 above, try f/5.6 and move in third stops until you get what you are looking for) Make sure to feather both main and fill and make sure they are not pointed AT the subject. Set the camera for flash WB That should be a good starting point. Make adjustments from there. Plenty of good tutorials and others docs in the this forum. Might want to take a look around and study, study, study and then practice, practice, practice. |
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- Jim |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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To have a white background, you will need to light that -- I usually use two lights with umbrellas 45-degrees to the backdrop on each side.
Move your subject away from the background to avoid spill -- and light your subject with one light and a reflector, or two lights. You can always throw in another light for a hair light. However, from what you list for your equipment, you don't have enough lights to create what you envision. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Llama
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Quote:
Can the Sb800 flash be used to light the person and the strobes to light the background? 1. Or get reflectors 2. or Softbox for one of the strobes. |
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__________________
Eero Makela Photographies des femmes pour les hommes. ========== To see the light you have to understand the light, but to understand the light you have to see the light. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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Quote:
That should get you pretty close to what you want without having to buy a whole bunch of additional equipment. Another thought for lighting your background would be to get a pair of Vivitar 285HVs at $90 each, 2 lightstands, 2 umbrella adapters and 2 umbrellas -- plus two Wein peanut slaves to fire them when your BX400's fire. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Here's a setup using one light and large diffusion panel. Position one light so that it shoots through a diffusion panel to light the subject from one side and also lights the background as it shoots past the rear edge of the diffusion panel.
By careful positioning of the diffusion panel's distance to the subject and the lights distance from the background you can control how bright the background is relative to the subject. See the first illustration. The second illustration shows a typical white bkgd setup for a figure shot. Of special interest, and often not included or mentioned, are the two large black flags, one on each side of the subject. These large 6'-7' tall flags (black foamcore works well) control flare from the bkgd lights. The idea is to keep the light from the bkgd from hitting the sides of the subject. Ideally the light from the bkgd also hits the camera lens along the lens axis and not from the sides. |
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro...." Hunter S. Thompson |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Nice diagrams Brooks. The one on the right would give the best results. The left setup most likely would not allow for even lighting on the background (especially for full body), which many times is not the look that is needed. However if the solid white background is the need, go more with setup #2.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Thank you everyone for these great tips.
I had better success last night. I was watching the histograms more then the 3" LCD screen. Also I have a gray card which I forgot to take with me to the studio. but my friend who was there had one with him so we did a white balance with it for the camera. This time I used settings based on my Flash meter settings F11 @ 1/125th I did most of the shots at F11 I varied the F stops to see what it does. The higher the F value the more gray the white BG becomes which is expected. Changing the Shutter speed has like next to nothing effect as my research has shown. If modeling lights are on then yes the lower shutter speed allows that light in. I was not even using them at the beginning of the photoshoot as there was enough light from outside (behind curtains) to see the models. |
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__________________
Eero Makela Photographies des femmes pour les hommes. ========== To see the light you have to understand the light, but to understand the light you have to see the light. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Llama
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studio2.jpg
This is about how I have it setup. The angles might be off a bit on the lights. |
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__________________
Eero Makela Photographies des femmes pour les hommes. ========== To see the light you have to understand the light, but to understand the light you have to see the light. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Ecto,
That's not a main light and fill light setup. That's a two light setup. If you want to use a second light as a fill light then you have to position it on the lens axis, above or below the lens. A 2 light setup such as you have illustrated will create double shadows on the subject. Not a good thing normally for a portrait. |
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__________________
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro...." Hunter S. Thompson |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Llama
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Quote:
When i said that you wanted to move the fill light laterally towards the main just a bit ... really meant just a bit. It took me F O R E V E R to locate this thread inside of camel (why do i have the same one bookmarked outside of camel?), but I think "seeing" how Ben has his lights set up might help. Even still, you need to meter, experiment, post for critique ... then repeat from what you have learned. |
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__________________
- Jim |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Sorry Jim. Back to drawing board. So my guess is that one of the lights needs to be close to the camera and pointing at the model. Should the other light then be pointing at the white background and behind the model.
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__________________
Eero Makela Photographies des femmes pour les hommes. ========== To see the light you have to understand the light, but to understand the light you have to see the light. |
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