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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Got a couple AB800's. When I first tried them out I got the same results. I'm using a hotshoe sync cord adapter. I took the adapter off, and shot a couple frames which came out OK, then put it back on, and everything was good after that.
Tried it again tonight. Same thing, except this time it never went away, just got better, but still had the weird black at the bottom of the picture. Is there a setting in the camera that I need to set when using these lights? Exif: D80 24-85 f/3.5-4.5 lens f/11 1/320 sec ISO-200 24mm __________________
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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Quote:
Don't ask me if I feel stupid about now! I knew I could only get 1/200 with the speedlight, but thought I could go higher with the AB's. I checked all the shots that came out right, and everyone of them were shot at 1/200. Thanks Kevin |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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The video in this link may help you understand what is happening.
The best explanation of flash sync speed « manocam |
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Regards, Kevin |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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Certain Canon shooters should note that type of flash can impact sync speed.My 30d syncs up to 1/250th w/dedicated flash and with studio strobes it will only sync up to 1/125.Standard x-sync is only considered here,not high speed.Why Canon did that I'd like to know!
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#11 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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Thaniks John for trying to help.My question was meant to be retorical.It seems like Canon would have allowed the camera to sync w/studio strobes at 250 since it can sync at 250(Standard) with a dedicated flash.I was trying to keep high speed sync from con-sideration.Thanks again.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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For what it's worth, I shoot with Nikon D2xS's. Flash sync for this camera is @ 1/250th. However, sometimes while shooting outdoors I will up the shutter speed to a 500th or higher to compensate for ambient light. The higher in speed yu go, the more under-exposed the upper portion of the image becomes, (where the shutter is begining to close prior to the flash burst). However, by knowing where that dark line begins, and placing the subject in the right spot, you can get a pretty nice image. In cases where the dark portion along the top becomes a real problem or the subject can't be repositioned, I turn the camera upside down. You have to remotely fire the flashes with Pocket Wizards or something similar in order to get the camera to not automatically set the shutter at the correct 1/250th speed.
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