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#21 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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There are cheaper versions usually listed under Radio Slaves....most have a 80 foot range. Not nearly what you can get with PW's but it is still going to dedicate your flash so it is yours....NO BODY WILL BE STEALING YOUR FLASH WITH THERE POINT AND SHOOTS.
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#22 (permalink) | |
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F1 Camel
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Suggestion: swap out the incandescent modeling lights for halogen bulbs. I usually use these: Product Information Error Page They are much brighter and easier to use for faster AF. They also help keep the pupils closed up a bit more for better eye color. |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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I'm such a happy camper. As she is the financial director around here, and said I'd be able to get a back up body in a couple months, I'm not sure if telling her I need triggers, and a light meter will go over well. Sometimes when talking about something I want or need, she gets this look in her eyes like she might beat me to death in my sleep with one of my long lens. |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Well to save you from a beating down with a lens, take a peek here AlienBees: The CyberSync 2.4GHz Radio Remote Control system I have a set on order to run my strobes. Can't wait for them to come in. Supposed to be good for 400'
Best, Roger |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Is there such a meter that wouldn't take a rocket scientists to learn how to use? Or are they pretty simple? I've never held one in my life.
Damn...more money to spend! I guess if it will help me, I'll go ahead and get one now. Having no clue about meters, what would be best for my needs? All I want is something that will get the job done, but have good quality, and build. I don't like to buy junk, but don't need the latest, and greatest either. This thread has run amuck, first SB, then lights, and now meters. Thank You all Too Much, Kevin |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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"All I want is something that will get the job done, but have good quality, and build. I don't like to buy junk, but don't need the latest, and greatest either."
Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. The industry is changing rapidly and having the correct (best ) tools will really help you to work without suffering and make more money. Sekonic 358, 558,758 and so on are probably the best to consider now. I still like and use Minota Flash Meters III & IV, but am transitioning over to the Sekonic 758DR. The benefits from the Sekonics is that they show highlights and shadow, contribution from flash, allow pre-sets for multiple camera and lens combinations, trigger your flash without wires and have spot meter capability built in, so you don't' need to buy another meter. Digital work is more precise so a good meter will confirm the correct settings in the shortest amount of time and save you money and increase your quality control in the long run. Looking at the display on the back of the camera is NOT a good way to go beyond the time it takes, it also isn't accurate both due to it limitations and the fact that the image is processed for best appearance and makes "corrections" to your file without you being aware of it and maybe not the correction you want. |
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#33 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
Location: Central Illinois (North of I-64, South of I-80)
Posts: 36
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Consider using shoot through umbrellas for diffusion. They are inexpensive and quick to set up.
As far as flash meters go, I have a Seconic L-308 and an L-558 with Pocket Wizard transmitter. I usually use the L-308. The 558 has lots more features, but I just am more comfortable with the 308. These days, I use the histogram for my final exposure check. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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Found this video that should help YouTube - Quick Video 2 , Umbrella or Softbox in the Photo Studio?
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Rodney- Nikon D300 and some lenses. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
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Instead of using very large softboxes (or even huge umbrellas) I read somewhere about a pro photographer that painted all of his studio's walls and ceiling white and then turned his main light around behind him and pointed it at an upper corner (where the ceiling and two walls meet) and used his room for a softbox.
Kinda like when at a wedding and turning the flash towards the ceiling, a wall or the big dude with the white shirt/suit next to ya. Might work if you only painted the rear part of your studio white (behind the camera) and then painted the rest matte black to control the light reflection somewhat. |
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#36 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Would either the Polaris SPD100 meter, or the Sekonic 308 get the job done?
My financial director "wife" is fixing to kill me in my sleep.....I can feel it coming. I know there are some seriously expensive meters out there. If I buy a cheaper one now, will I be regretting it in the near future? As far as lens go I never cut corners, because I know I'll get many years of use from them, but I've never owned a meter before. |
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#37 (permalink) | |
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Guanaco
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BTW, I have been using White Lightning mono lights for over twenty years now and if the Bees are half as good I'm sure you will be very happy with them! You should get many years out of your meter as well, but you need to baby it like you do your lenses, don't drop it and it'll remain accurate indefinitely. |
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When two "authentic" skulls of Oliver Cromwell were on display at the same time in London the owner of the smaller skull claimed that it was Cromwell as a child.
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#38 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
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I'm pretty happy with my cactus triggers, and I'd think it'd be especially easy to use them since you're using this with studio lights and will be relatively close to the lights i'd assume. If not those, wait for the Radio Popper Jrs....those are supposed to be very reliable but close in price to the ebay triggers than the PWs....
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