AB800 and softbox

[UBSeng]

I have a really dumb question: what is the best way to attach the softbox to the AB? I mean physically, how/where do you hold the softbox with one hand and place ot over the prongs while holding the antennae with the other hand? Or, I just had a lightning bolt go off in my head as I was typing, do you put the lightbox down face down, put the light on and then put it on the lightstand?

Told you it was a dumb question

[brian.austin]

Depends on which model. I use the folding softboxes with my AB's. The large softbox is shallow enough for me to hold from the inside (I have long arms) so it's fairly easy to place by grasping the inside supports, pinching the light mount and placing the softbox on the light.

The extra large is too big for that, however, so I peel back the velcro around the speedring and grab the speedring from the back. Then I place it over the prongs as normal.

I never considered placing the softbox on the ground and mounting the light prior to putting it on the lightstand. Let us know how that works!

[highbarger]

Different box and flash head, but probably basically the same... I place my Photoflex softbox face down on the floor and then connect my Photogenic head to the speedring, then attach it to the lightstand.

[UBSeng]

Originally Posted by brian.austin

Depends on which model. I use the folding softboxes with my AB's. The large softbox is shallow enough for me to hold from the inside (I have long arms) so it's fairly easy to place by grasping the inside supports, pinching the light mount and placing the softbox on the light.

The extra large is too big for that, however, so I peel back the velcro around the speedring and grab the speedring from the back. Then I place it over the prongs as normal.

I never considered placing the softbox on the ground and mounting the light prior to putting it on the lightstand. Let us know how that works!

Thanks, Brian! Your method is pretty much what I do, but I hate opening and closing the velcro and then there is still no great place to hold the box. This method seems very clumsy, especially with larger sizes.

I'll have to try the other way, it might even work

Originally Posted by highbarger

Different box and flash head, but probably basically the same... I place my Photoflex softbox face down on the floor and then connect my Photogenic head to the speedring, then attach it to the lightstand.

Thank you so much for confirming this idea, it makes so much more sense. I bet it's faster too

[WayneF]

Originally Posted by UBSeng

do you put the lightbox down face down, put the light on and then put it on the lightstand?

Yes, I just place the Large AB softbox face down on the carpet floor, and then insert the flash into it. Then put it on the light stand.

[ingramimages]

Yes, I have the giant 30" by 60" softbox from AlienBees and this is about the only way I can get it on flash unit. Set it face down on the floor - and squeeze the light mounts and insert the light down into the speed ring. Then pick the whole thing up - one hand on the light, the other on a softbox rib - and put it on the light stand.

[KellyL]

I like the floor idea. Never thought of that. I always hold one of the rods and wrestle it on the dern thang. Of course, I usually am setting up in my garage and don't want to put the soft box on the floor. But I will improvise.

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by KellyL

I like the floor idea. Never thought of that. I always hold one of the rods and wrestle it on the dern thang. Of course, I usually am setting up in my garage and don't want to put the soft box on the floor. But I will improvise.

Same here. I like the suggestion...and feel a bit silly for not thinking of it!

[KellyL]

Brian.austin...you seem to be a smart feller. Let me ask you this. How does the quality of light change with the different types of strobes. To me...it seems that light is light. How does the light produced from an AB differ from that produced by another strobe. Jason Cole over in weddings who also shoots glamour uses Broncolour lights and swears by them. Other people use much more expensive light. Does the quality of light change with the brand? Makes no sense to me.

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by KellyL

Brian.austin...you seem to be a smart feller. Let me ask you this. How does the quality of light change with the different types of strobes. To me...it seems that light is light. How does the light produced from an AB differ from that produced by another strobe. Jason Cole over in weddings who also shoots glamour uses Broncolour lights and swears by them. Other people use much more expensive light. Does the quality of light change with the brand? Makes no sense to me.

Yes, it changes. Most of my experience is with ABs (and keep in mind that my first experience in a studio was March 2007, less than a year ago).

Consider all of the factors ABOUT light: color temp, direction, power, etc.. All of it can change between lights or manufacturers. I know I'm not using the correct terms here but I'm only on my first cup of coffee on this chilly Sunday morning.

For instance, less expensive lights will have a bigger temperature gradient across their power curves. ABs are known for having a slightly blue cast at lower power. Part of it depends on flashtubes and the head's ability to deliver consistent voltage and current to the tube.

The Alienbee site actually has some good research material with a slight slant in marketing propaganda but it's a good place to start.

Honestly, most of the differences can either be made up in camera setting changes or in post work, especially color temp changes. Most of the time, I don't think people can tell whether a Hensel, Alien Bee, White Lightning, off-camera flash, or Broncolor unit was used. Heck, if you set it up correctly, halogen hot lights can give the same image, too!

[KellyL]

Yes, I see what you mean. When I have my AB's too low, I do see the blue cast. But I also start my shoot with a Whibal card and change the WB in LightRoom.

I also have a hard time believing that soft boxes can be radically different from one another. I own both the large AB and the 4 x 6 Larson. The Larson is flatter...which I am sure has something to do with light dispersion...but it would seem a soft box is a soft box is a soft box. I suppose a better comparison would be between a Chimera and an Alien Bee soft box, as their dimensions are more the same. Does the quality of the light really change from Chimera to Alien Bee?

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by KellyL

Yes, I see what you mean. When I have my AB's too low, I do see the blue cast. But I also start my shoot with a Whibal card and change the WB in LightRoom.

I do the same.

I also have a hard time believing that soft boxes can be radically different from one another. I own both the large AB and the 4 x 6 Larson. The Larson is flatter...which I am sure has something to do with light dispersion...but it would seem a soft box is a soft box is a soft box. I suppose a better comparison would be between a Chimera and an Alien Bee soft box, as their dimensions are more the same. Does the quality of the light really change from Chimera to Alien Bee?

Now this I HAVE noticed. Not with a Chimera but after normally using my AB folding boxes, I used a friend's studio and equipment with his AB's and a Photoflex softbox. There was a slight difference. The inside of the Photoflex is dimpled/crinkled a LOT more than the AB, bouncing the light in different directions a bit more. It's not a huge change but I can see the difference between some of my early pics with the same model and these latest. I'd post but they're all nudes.

I liked the light change. It seemed slightly "cleaner" with a bit more falloff, which is useful for the rimlighting I was trying. I also noticed less post work was needed on some skin areas.

I'd like to try a Chimera to see if they live up to their reputation before making any purchases in that area. The two softboxes I have now suit my shooting locations for now, though, so I'm not in a big hurry.

[KellyL]

Now my curiosity is up.

The interior of the Larson is almost smooth. Not at all like the AB.

[Brooks]

Brian wrote: "For instance, less expensive lights will have a bigger temperature gradient across their power curves. ABs are known for having a slightly blue cast at lower power. Part of it depends on flashtubes and the head's ability to deliver consistent voltage and current to the tube.................

Honestly, most of the differences can either be made up in camera setting changes or in post work, especially color temp changes. ....."

Less expensive strobes that exhibit a color change at different power levels can create color problems that are difficult to correct.

If a setup uses more than one strobe, and they are all at the same power setting, and therefore the same color temperature, then any incorrect color can be globally corrected.

But...if the strobes are at different power settings..i.e. the fill light is at less power than the key light which in itself is at less power than the background light etc. then you have a situation with multiple color temperatures which is very difficult to correct.

If you're shooting professionally where specific product colors are important, such as food, fashion, catalog work, etc. it pays to invest in professional equipment with consistent color temperature at ALL power settings.

[KellyL]

Brooks, what you says resonates with what Alien Bee's told me when I was ordering. I ordered one 400 ws, three 800 ws. Naively I was going to order a 1600 ws as well, and the gal on the phone told me that I wouldn't want to do that because of the white balance issues. Mixing a 400 and 800 didn't seem to be too much of a problem, but spanning all three seemed to alarm her.

[grsphoto]

Yes you can see the difference between different manufacturers and different softboxes ( umbrellas etc)

A bit of background. I own a rental studio ( 3 studios) that supplies equipment as well. I know my own gear, and I have seen kits by most of the major manufactures come through my spaces.

In my inventory I have 15 heads, 4 packs, 8 ? softboxes, 25 reflectors...and other assorted stuff.

During set-up I can tell the difference between my Chimera, Red Wing or Elinchrome boxes ( the difference is in colour and texture), and I choose the box depending on the look I am after.

As for differences between less expensive and more expensive heads, there is a difference.

It is subtle.

I think it comes down to the tube and tube placement. The AB tube is small and sits flat against the metal backing ( which also has to act as a reflector). The more expensive units have a much larger tube, which coils out from the backing and are further into the reflector. I think this produces a faster, more even and dispersed flash, which can be better controlled by the modifiers.

There is also the glass covering over the tube which, according to the blurbs by the manufactures, controls the colour temp etc.,

My opinion is that the AB are great lights. The modifiers they sell are OK ( some are a PITA to put together) and that for 80% of the photographers who need lights, they will do the job.

Glenn

[nyschulte]

The size of the softbox is more important than the strobe.
For the color temp of the strobes you could take a shoot with a whibal card at each power change.
The size and thus the proximity of the softbox to the models makes the difference: if you have to move a smaller softbox further away to get the model lit gives you a stronger contrast as opposed to a large softbox very close.
For larger softboxes which have the strobe inside will give you an even illumination with no hotspot.

Nicolas

[dicksallee]

Back to putting the softbox on the AB's I usually do it by turning the flash to face upwards. Then the softbox can be cradled in both hands and dropped down onto the head. I grant you it's rather like a juggling act to squeeze the retaining handles and maneuver the SB into place, but I find this a very convenient way to do the dirty deed. Frankly, I avoid the issue whenever possible.

rps

[Nikonfreak]

Originally Posted by brian.austin

I never considered placing the softbox on the ground and mounting the light prior to putting it on the lightstand. Let us know how that works!

I do this with the larger softboxes. I can see myself breaking the bulbs in my hands if I didn't. Klutzy me.

Julio

[RockyPtJoe]

Ditto on any larger softboxes....I put them face down on the floor, and attach the light, then mount on a stand.