New home studio

[Sidebyte]

I'm building a new rather large shop/garage and computer room as an extension of my guest house. I want to install a small studio for family portraits etc. and have a question?
I've literally shot thousands of portraits when I was a Navy photog. but didn't learn squat about portraiture because it was a stationary setup and never varied, same lighting etc, for every shot, typical Bureau of Navy Personnel shots.
My question is because the setup will be stationary and not moved what type of lighting is better for this situation, floods, strobes etc., house current, no batteries for sure.
If floods, I see some new floods called "cool lights", look like fluorescents?

[Brooks]

Why will your new setup be "stationary" ?

Studio strobes are the best choice for people photography.

[Sidebyte]

Stationary because it won't be moved to any other location except the designated area. Portable in the sense that I can move the individual light stands but only one permanent location in the building.

[KerryG]

This is always a big debate and many pros still use hot lights with umbrellas and many pros use flashes with softboxes, its all a matter of personal choice and style. I personally love umbrellas with either flashes or hot lights because my studio is inside my house and I want fast setup/teardown. Excuse the shameless plug, but on our site (L7Foto.com) we have a number of reviews that you may be interested in, the PhotoBasics 3 Light Kit, the Ba-Wang Strobe, as well as as a number of lighting tutoruals. The issue with hot lights is that they are...well....hot, and some people don't like working with them because of the heat, on the other hand they are easy to use because you see exactly what you are going to get versus often some trial and error with flashes.

[Sidebyte]

Thanks Kerry,
As I stated in another thread I've shot thousands of portraits while in the Navy but it was a permanent setup with floods of course (1950's). Strobes didn't even exist when I was doing that but I've been reading some info. on some web sites regarding permanent "cool lights". One unit consisted of what appeared to be 4 high wattage florescents bulbs (500 wts.) in a single reflector and an umbrella. I wondered if any one had used these because as you stated strobes are trial and error. These will be in a permanent position so I don't need portable units.

[Sidebyte]

Photo of the cool lights I was referring to.

[Brooks]

Originally Posted by Sidebyte

.... I've been reading some info. on some web sites regarding permanent "cool lights". One unit consisted of what appeared to be 4 high wattage florescents bulbs (500 wts.) in a single reflector and an umbrella. I wondered if any one had used these because as you stated strobes are trial and error. These will be in a permanent position so I don't need portable units.

There's no "debate" about whether one should use strobes or hot lights for portraits. Strobes are the preferred lighting by a huge margin. Hot lights are not just too hot they're also very dim and force you to use high ISOs and slow shutter speeds.

Aesthetically, bright hot lights also contract the subjects pupils which is not an attractive look.

"Cool" fluorescent lights are as dim as hot lights with all of the same drawbacks of high ISO and slow shutter speed. Plus it's hard to throw the light from a fluorescent which is to say that grids are ineffective (fluorescents are too underpowered) and fresnel spots don't exist for fluorescents.

Studio flash is the best choice and it's certainly not "hit or miss". With modeling lamps of 200 w or more you can see EXACTLY what your lighting will be. If you want an inexpensive brand, don't buy the imported Chinese junk that's all over the internet and on EBay. Get a reliable brand. Many people like Alien Bees when they are starting out. ABs are relatively inexpensive, made in the USA and are easily servicable.

I prefer more professional equipment with brighter modeling lights and better designed modifiers, such as Speedotron or Dynalite.

You get what you pay for in lighting equipment. Don't throw your money away.

[nyschulte]

Hi,

I will also point you in the direction of strobes. They are versatile, easy to setup, you can use so many modifiers, BUT they are not cheap.

As Brooks says, a decent modeling lamp gives you all detail for the lighting.

A flashmeter is the tool with which you will nail down exposure to the 10th of an f-stop required for digital.

When looking for a brand you should consider
. the accessories (from small softbos to BIG ones, snoot, ringflash, beautydish,...)
. recycle time time
. color fidelity (which should not change at different power settings)
. power range modifiable digitaly (in 1 10th of an f-stop)
. assorted line of heads, i.e. from small 200Ws heads to 2400Ws, so you can reuse your accessories
. wireless trigger for your comfort

You can start out with one or 2 heads and then build up as you need.

Nicolas

[KerryG]

Too dim? When I am using hot lights I have 500, 800, and 1000w lights for key and fill along with 100-500 for backlighting, I certainly dont have to dial down the shutter speed with that much light. The two biggest drawbacks are already mentioned, a) they are HOT, and b) they can cause pupils to dilate. Strobes are my favorite but I know several pros that still use hot lights.

[Brooks]

What ISO are you using with those hot lights? What shutter speed and f-stop? What softboxes allow you to use 1000w hot lights? Chimera makes a few but they are much more expensive than their softboxes for strobe and still limited to 1000w.

I've been on film (motion picture) shoots where the DOP was using hot lights, or Kinos. They shoot at 1/30 second (30fps) and wide open at f 2 - 2.8 on 400 ISO color negative stock. For my 100 IS0 capture I was getting 1/8th sec at f2.8. I always want and need more depth of field and certainly a faster shutter speed

I've found that the apparent brightness of hot lights causes the subject's pupils to contract, not dilate.

I've been a commercial photographer for over 25 years and I know of no one who uses hot lights for anything other than architectural interior shoots... and even most of those guys prefer strobes.

[nyschulte]

I have a couple of hot lights from Hedler H25s. They have 2500W each, which is barely sufficient at ISO 200, f4, 1/60th





I sometimes re-use them, but only for a short time, as i do not want to roast my models

Nicolas

[Sidebyte]

It's no doubt that good strobes are preferred but at what cost for a small HOME studio? In the military I shot "thousands" of portrait photo's for officers records (required) with regular flood lamps and never had anyone complain. Most of the portraits I anticipate shooting in a home studio is my wife's relatives and friends. If they don't like hot lights that T.S., let them go elsewhere

[rhoffart]

Originally Posted by Sidebyte

It's no doubt that good strobes are preferred but at what cost for a small HOME studio?

about 2k here ... putting the finishing touches on it now ... Pictures

[Sidebyte]

Nah! Too much money for my wife's ugly relatives.

[Capturetmoment]

My first suggestions would be to learn what it takes to get the type/style of portraits you want to create / how to control light. Then consider the space you plan to have available. To do full length portraits and be able to control the background light effectively, (in my opinion) you’ll need at least 18’ of depth (background 2-3’ + 6’ space for subject + 6-10’ for camera position from subject). Basically, learn what type of portraiture you want to create, what style you want, and what it takes to get it before building a space or spending money on equipment. And be prepared for your style to develop/ change as you learn more.

By the way, 2 thousand dollars is the price of the soft boxes were waiting to get. For now, I use some decent used ones I purchased for about $50 each. Currently I use 4 Photogenic 1250drs lights in my studio and even bring them on location. There tough and reliable.

I wouldn’t even consider hot lights in a small space unless you want the hot sweaty look and uncomfortable models to deal with.

If snap shots portraits is all your looking for with no amount of volume, (assuming you already have a good SLR) you may want to consider just picking up some used shoe mount flash units (with remote firing capabilities). This would allow you to avoid the hot light issue and not spend a lot of money. You’ll get decent shots, but won’t have as much control over the light or much of a selection of light modifiers.

Again, learning the type of portraiture you want to create will give you the shopping list of what it takes to create it. Roto-vision publishing has some decent portrait books that include basic diagrams of portraits that detail the type of equipment used to capture the shot. Might be a good resource to start with. It’s at least worth making a trip to the local book store to flip through. Good luck…

[brian.austin]

Originally Posted by Brooks

I've found that the apparent brightness of hot lights causes the subject's pupils to contract, not dilate.

Why wouldn't you want the pupils to contract? That shows more eye color and less black.

Obviously there should be a balance but I intentionally replaced the incandescent bulbs in my strobes with brighter halogens for just this effect.

[kgphoto]

Hey, Just because I CAN make a picture by the light of a match doesn't mean I "should" or that it is the "best" or most efficient.

I would suggest that for the most bang for your buck, color quality, stop action capability, fast recycle and shoot times, you get some Ultra 600's or their equivalent.

You will have more convenience, capability and versatility in the long run. Start with two lights. You can always add more and use a series of reflectors until you can afford and/r want more lights.

Sure you could get by with only one, but then you wouldn't have a spare.