Monolights like ABB800s aren't TTL, right?

[waple]

I'm used to a Canon 430EX flash set to TTL and I keep my camera set to M and adjust the ISO, f and shutter as needed.

However, I'll be getting a set of lights, probably 2 AlienBees B800s (unless a B400 and a B1600 is a better choice). From what I understand, I'd set the lights to a low setting and my ISO to 100 to start, then I'd adjust from there.

Well, what's the proper way and order to adjust?

My guess is that you adjust the shadow type (soft or hard-edged) by moving the lights further or closer, but that, I'm assuming, will affect the falloff. If you need more light, you'd start by upping the light output. If you're at max out and still need more, would you adjust shutter or ISO next?

Or, eh, how do you start?

[jfrancho]

You should get a light meter. No TTL with studio lights.

[Lee4145]

If you're getting the B800's your problem is definitely not going to be maxing out the light. Depending on the size of your space you may find it tough to turn them down low enough. I just start at around f5.6-f8 and 1/125 and adjust the light a little bit. With two it will be hard to get ratios right if you're fussy about them but that will get you going.

[waple]

Originally Posted by Lee4145

If you're getting the B800's your problem is definitely not going to be maxing out the light. Depending on the size of your space you may find it tough to turn them down low enough. I just start at around f5.6-f8 and 1/125 and adjust the light a little bit. With two it will be hard to get ratios right if you're fussy about them but that will get you going.

The 800s would be overkill? I was under the impression that the 400s would really only be good for lighting a tent or something small.

One of the upcoming gigs I have is to shoot a portrait of a client that would be on the cover of a magazine. It's too good to pass the opportunity up. I told her that I would be new with these lights so we'd have to play around a lot, and she was fine with that. It'll be from her waist up and her hand would be over her head. And I need a blurred background. Would 2 400s be enough, or even one 800?

When you say to start around 5.6-8, do you mean the camera or is that how the lights measure the adjustments? Or are the lights adjusted like my flash which is 1/1, 1/2. 1/4, etc?

Thanks!

[kgphoto]

Pick the f:stop that gives the DOF you want. Set the lights to give you that f:stop based on the size of the room and modifiers you are using at the ISO setting on your camera. Shoot in manual and use a light meter you can understand. Simple.

[Brooks]

The 800s would be overkill? I was under the impression that the 400s would really only be good for lighting a tent or something small.

Hard to believe the 800 ABs would be overkill in most situations. They are only 320ws, despite the claim of "800 effective watt seconds".

One of the upcoming gigs I have is to shoot a portrait of a client that would be on the cover of a magazine. It's too good to pass the opportunity up. I told her that I would be new with these lights so we'd have to play around a lot, and she was fine with that. It'll be from her waist up and her hand would be over her head. And I need a blurred background. Would 2 400s be enough, or even one 800?

A blurred background is about more than just the f-stop used. You can use f 16 with a slight portrait telephoto and the background will be well blurred if it is more than 10 ft. behind the subject.

When you say to start around 5.6-8, do you mean the camera or is that how the lights measure the adjustments? Or are the lights adjusted like my flash which is 1/1, 1/2. 1/4, etc?

The flash power is adjusted in 1/2, 1/4. 1/8th power increments or thirds, quarters, halves of a stop etc. and I believe the ABs use a sliding knob adjustment. A sliding knob, as apposed to a knob with click stops or digital reaout, is convenient for intermediate settings.....not so convenient when you are trying to return to an exact previous setting.

Here's a simple executive head shot done just last week on location, using one 800ws Speedotron Black Line Pack with one medium 3'x4' Chimera softbox and a fill card. Exposure was f 11.5, 105mm 2.8 Nikkor on a full frame Kodak SLRN at the full 800ws. The softbox was about 3 ft. from the subject on the right side of the camera. White fill card was about 3 ft on to the left of the subject.

The location was an office building atrium with an outside glass wall, 20 ft behind the subject. Shutter speed was 1/30th sec for the available outside view.

As you can see a True 800ws at 160 ISO is not a lot of power in a medium 3'x4' softbox. F 11.5 to be exact. Backed up to a distance of 5 -6 ft for your waist-up shot and I would expect to see just a little better than f8, maybe a bit less.

If you're going to get ABs, get the 1600s. I think they're really about 600 ws or so.

[trentchau]

AB800's have TTE metering for me.



(tte = Through the Eye)

Just like Canon's TTL system it isn't always accurate, but it's fun to work with

[waple]

I appreciate all that info.

Originally Posted by Brooks

Hard to believe the 800 ABs would be overkill in most situations. They are only 320ws, despite the claim of "800 effective watt seconds".
...
If you're going to get ABs, get the 1600s. I think they're really about 600 ws or so.

Why get the 1600s if you said the 800s would be overkill in most situations? Just because if I ever need the extra power it's there?

I was actually considering a 1600 and a 400 and by doing so, spending about the same as two 800s. I would use the 1600 and reflector as a main and the 400 as a background/hair light. Or turn the 400 to full and the 1600 to 1/4 (or however it works out) if I need two equal lights. Is that not a good idea? two 1600s would blow my budget at this time (thinking of getting the octagon box and a bollybox) so the eventual third light could be a 1600.

[Lee4145]

It will depend a lot on what you plan to use for modifiers and the distance you plan to shoot. I'm just a little guy who uses them at home to shoot family and friends. I have two 400's. One with a 42" and one with a 60" umbrella. I use them fairly close to my subjects but I've never been much above 1/2 power. This and this were both shot with them.

[Brooks]

Originally Posted by waple

I appreciate all that info.



Why get the 1600s if you said the 800s would be overkill in most situations? Just because if I ever need the extra power it's there?

I was actually considering a 1600 and a 400 and by doing so, spending about the same as two 800s. I would use the 1600 and reflector as a main and the 400 as a background/hair light. Or turn the 400 to full and the 1600 to 1/4 (or however it works out) if I need two equal lights. Is that not a good idea? two 1600s would blow my budget at this time (thinking of getting the octagon box and a bollybox) so the eventual third light could be a 1600.

I said it would be HARD TO BELIEVE that the 800s would be overkill. You can always turn the power down and/or use neutral density gels or filters if you want less power. You might get jobs where the client wants more than just a head and shoulder shot with thin DOF.

Usually you need more power, not less, for a hairlight especially if it's mounted in a softbox or being used with a grid.

I wouldn't consider a 400. Maybe 1600 and an 800 but it would be better to have 2-1600s.

[kgphoto]

For 35mm and 2 1/2 portraiture, I use 100 ISO and two WL Ultra 600's which sound like they are close to the 800's in power. I shoot at f:8.0 most of the time. I typically have them a 1/4 power. I have three more that I use as accent and hair lights.

I got these to have the ability to turn down the power 5 stops as I wanted to have individual step-less control at a cost effective price point. I have Balcar 1200 a 2400 power packs for when I need to shoot chrome or large format. I also have about 2600 W/S of Norman gear for my big box.