Help using speedlight to trigger studio flash!!

[jerryph]

Originally Posted by Bobby Deal

I also use the Cyber Sync when tricking my speed lights to High Speed sync outdoors up to 1/8000 but that is a whole other discussion

it is, but just for the sake of discussion, it is possible to do it with the
Plus's II's and even easier and more effective to do with the PW ControlTL units.

YouTube - The Nikon High Speed Hack Trick by JerryPH

YouTube - The Nikon High Speed Hack Trick by JerryPH

[Bobby Deal]

Originally Posted by jerryph

it is, but just for the sake of discussion, it is possible to do it with the
Plus's II's and even easier and more effective to do with the PW ControlTL units.

YouTube - The Nikon High Speed Hack Trick by JerryPH

Yes I have used the PW2 for it too but the cyber syncs smaller size makes it easer to strap to the SB800 and is a lot less bulky. In the end both tools get the job done. One is a sturdier better built longer lasting tool that costs 3x or more then the other but they both do sufficient jobs. I started with the PW system and still love it but as I said for some things the economics come into play and carry more weight.

Btw once this hack is set you can sync as many monoliths as you want in the system. We use this outdoors at mid day to shoot at f/2.8 1/8000 and man the dynamic range is amazing

[Steve_in_FL]

This forum never ceases to be a treasure trove of information.

[Wavy C]

Originally Posted by kay123

I am a novice photographer and I am having trouble taking family photos in regards to my studio flash. I have a off name wireless trigger and lately it seem to only work for about three pictures, then it doesn't fire anymore. So I decided to use the speedlight to fire the flash ( as I thought my off-name wireless trigger is just not any good!), but when the shoot is taken and the flash fire, my photos are dark! I think I have a sync problem, but as I am novice, I am not too sure. Any suggestions!

-Kay

A few years ago I bought a little unbranded unit to do exactly what you want. Basically it is a very small and simple flash (runs on two AA batteries and just has an on/off switch). On the front, however, where a flash would normally have a clear lens, this one has a dark red lens. This means that when mounted on the camera the flash light is much less visible than it would be with a clear lens.

When using, the flash gives off what looks like a dim red glow - but it is super reliable at triggering the sensors on a studio flash. I've used this for a long time and can't think of having a single misfire with it, even in large buildings and with being a considerable distance from the studio flash.

A good radio triggering system might be the best option, but one of these (which cost around £10) would offer a very cheap and reliable alternative.

[quantumhelp]

That leaves the 420EX out of the picture (LOL). However you should make sure you have new batteries in the trigger. Make sure that the sender and the receiver are at least 5 feet apart . Too close and the electro-magnetic fields in each of them will garble the signal.