Multiple Choices

[soupy1957]

So there I was, perched precariously on some rocks at the waters edge..........the waves breaking in front of me, deafening me with the roar of the collision.
My Hasselblad was mounted to the tripod and I'd already decided the direction and limitations of the shots I wanted to take.
Pulling out my light meter (the Seconic L-208 I engaged the needle, and turned the wheel to match up the lines................the choices were all over the spectrum (of course).
I knew I wanted to freeze frame the waves, to avoid blurr and add action to the shot, and I had a bright (no clouds) noontime sun to work with, which was above my left shoulder when shooting NE and more behind my head when I shot SE.
Of course the Light Meter, as any Light Meter would do, gave me a multiple grouping of options for the ISO 400 film I was using.
What do you suppose I chose? What would YOU choose?
-Soupy1957

P.S. Do any of you actually carry a pad of paper (small pocket size or otherwise) to record the settings you chose for a particular shot or set of shots? Any value to doing that besides not having to say "dumb luck" when they ask you what your settings were for a particular shot?
I've received Bryan Peterson's 3rd Edition "Exposure" book and am just now turning the pages. Some really super camera shots in there! I've already found one grammatical, editorial error on one of the opening pages, but I wasn't looking for one. It just stood out and slapped my anal self. I wrote the publisher and "C.C.'d" Bryans crew. Did YOU find it? (Hint: Page 11). I also bought his "...Field Guide" book. Will save THAT one for later.
So far, I've received back two roles of the 120 film I've shot. Some interesting shots, and some just for testing. I don't have a scanner, so I can't put them here unless I digitize them somehow. I CAN say that I'm pleased from an amateur point of view, with some of them. It gratifies me to know that there are no light leaks in the Hassy, and that it functions well.

[jerryph]

Does it really matter? Unless someone was there, no one can tell you what settings to choose. Take 10 shots with 10 different settings and use the photo you like best!

In time you gain experience and will know what to use.

[soupy1957]

Jerryph: I guess I was figuring that if I was to enter a photo of mine into a contest, they would ask me to define my settings. Thus the need to get into the habit of writing them down.

I've also noticed that when photos are entered in here and other Forums, envariably someone will ask what the settings used, were.

-Soupy1957

[jerryph]

Ah, you are not using a digital back, just a Hassy with film, so yes, the though the thought still stands, it doesn't matter, but just keep track manually.

With digital, you can always see this info in the EXIF easily enough.

[deluco]

What you want is for us to guess at the "correct" exposure? Sounds like fun, but I don't have an app for that.

Too many variables...what part of the scene are you reading and favoring? Are you measuring ambient light or spot metering? What is the focal length of the lens? When you look thru the lens what are you seeing...how much bright sky, how much dark foreground, etc. Are you processing the film or printing yourself or having it done professionally? What brand/model film are you using?

Most film likes to be over-exposed (based on the film's ISO designation). The extra density can give you more latitude when the print is made....but I'm not a print maker.

All that said and all things being "equal". I would say that even without a meter you should probably start at F11 1/500th (with a tripod), bracket a few shots from there. That's only because most professional films are over-rated by about a stop in my opinion (for people photography). If your experience is different, then your starting point may be F16 1/500th.

Noon-day sun is a killer anyway, so it might be better to wait 'til the sun comes down closer to the horizon in back of you...adjust he exposure accordingly.

[soupy1957]

jerryph said, "..........just a Hassy with film"
-Yeah (lol), JUST a Hassy.

deluco said, "Most film likes to be over-exposed......."
-I've never heard anyone say THAT before. I think I'd like to discuss that. Care to elaborate?

deluco said, "..... bracket a few shots from there."
-I've "bracketed" a couple of shots when I first received my new "Hassy" and was trying to see the way it responds to f-stop changes (how forgiving it was/is), but with film, "bracketing" is a rich man's pleasure; not a poor man's choice.

-Soupy1957

[deluco]

Originally Posted by soupy1957

deluco said, "Most film likes to be over-exposed......."
-I've never heard anyone say THAT before. I think I'd like to discuss that. Care to elaborate?

-Soupy1957

I used to shoot 400 ISO Kodak Portra for example. However, I got much better results in print (from the pro lab) when I shot it at 200 ISO (over-exposed it by one stop). The same results from other 120/220 films that I used. Other photographers shared the same results with me....and the lab agreed. Contact your lab and tell them what film you are using...ask them if you should shoot it at the printed rating or should you over or under-expose it.

Originally Posted by soupy1957

deluco said, "..... bracket a few shots from there."
-I've "bracketed" a couple of shots when I first received my new "Hassy" and was trying to see the way it responds to f-stop changes (how forgiving it was/is), but with film, "bracketing" is a rich man's pleasure; not a poor man's choice.

-Soupy1957

You may not see much of an exposure difference in one or two stops of film bracketing because the lab adjusts the exposure when you go to print. However you may see a difference in contrast. Also, if you look at the negatives with a loupe you should see a difference in density.

You have a Hasselblad and you're concerned about film costs? If you are trying to learn exposure settings for a film and/or camera, you will expect to spend some money.

[soupy1957]

deluco said, "You have a Hasselblad and you're concerned about film costs?"

-No, film has not been very expensive at all (ISO 120) and the processing costs have been nominal as well. I just want a fair price is all.

-Soupy1957

[deluco]

You can process the film only (relatively cheap) with no paper proofs and review them with a loupe. You'll probably get more exposure information than by looking at paper proofs.

[ksgal]

"I knew I wanted to freeze frame the waves, to avoid blurr and add action to the shot, and I had a bright (no clouds) noontime sun to work with, which was above my left shoulder when shooting NE and more behind my head when I shot SE.
Of course the Light Meter, as any Light Meter would do, gave me a multiple grouping of options for the ISO 400 film I was using.
What do you suppose I chose? What would YOU choose?"

I'm sure with some of the requirement outlined, a faster shutter speed is desired to freeze the action. And I'm just guessing I'd probably want a different time of day than high noon for the lighting.. but that is JMHO.

The really tricky part is timing the press of the button to the action of the waves where you want it.