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#1 |
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Guanaco
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I don't have any lights yet, but plan too. what I don't understand, after reading almost all of these threads, is how you know what settings to use for the lighting, and aperture. Do you set your aperture first, or what? I know you can use f8-f22, but what detrmines the actual number, or is it the lighting that you set first, so as not to blow out the skin?
I have watched videos, with light meters reading f8 on the face, and f11 on the blackground, so as to blow the background out for high key, but what numbers do you use for low key? When do you use the smaller apertures? Which aps are best for groups? YKWIM ![]() ? Thanks, I know I'll get it after I read it a few times! Jess__________________
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__________________
Jess www.CreativeInspirationsPhotography.com Nikon D70, 18-70mm, 50mm 1.8, 70-300 mm lenses, *new*Sigma 50-150mmII 2.8 3 photogenic Studiomax III lights SB-800 flash, Demb diffuser PSE 6 |
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#2 |
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Photocamel Master
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(Cut and paste) "I don't have any lights yet, but plan too. what I don't understand, after reading almost all of these threads, is how you know what settings to use for the lighting, and aperture. Do you set your aperture first, or what? I know you can use f8-f22, but what detrmines the actual number, or is it the lighting that you set first, so as not to blow out the skin?
I have watched videos, with light meters reading f8 on the face, and f11 on the blackground, so as to blow the background out for high key, but what numbers do you use for low key? When do you use the smaller apertures? Which aps are best for groups?" You need a light meter that will read the kind light emitted by type of lights you intend to purchase. I assume you will be buying some flash units, but I suggest a meter that will read both ambient and flash as chances are you will be shooting in both lighting conditions. Using flash. This is how I meter using multiple flash units. I set up my fill light and meter it alone by pointing the dome of the meter straight toward the fill light with the meter under the subject's chin. Then I set up my main light and meter it with the dome pointed straight toward the main light (the fill is still on) and it also was held under the chin. Then I adjust one (usually the main) or both until I have about 2 stops difference between them (with the main being 2 stops brighter than the fill.) The shutter speed is of no consequence in the studio as the flash is now your shutter speed (BUT you must have your shutter speed set AT or BELOW synch, otherwise you will not get an image!) For group images I ALWAYS shoot at a small aperture (F11-F16) in order to guarantee that the back row of your group will be in focus. If outdoors you may have to use a long shutter speed and/or higher ISO than indoors. Benji Benji |
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In the end, people appreciate frankness more than flattery. Prov 28:23 |
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#3 |
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Guanaco
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thanks Benji. BTW, I have found your turorials very helpful. thanks for helping the new people with some basics. OK, now why have I read on other sites, and been told by my local camera store salesman, that with digital, I don't need a light meter? Is that because you can just check it on the display, or do you still recommend using a meter anyway? appreciate the response.
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__________________
Jess www.CreativeInspirationsPhotography.com Nikon D70, 18-70mm, 50mm 1.8, 70-300 mm lenses, *new*Sigma 50-150mmII 2.8 3 photogenic Studiomax III lights SB-800 flash, Demb diffuser PSE 6 |
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#4 | |
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Photocamel Master
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Jess, where are you shopping? That's a pretty odd comment, though I've seen reports of people getting it a lot. I know that my local camera stores haven't said that to me.
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-Michael Nikon V1 (Black), Nikon V1 (White), Nikon J1/WP-N1 (Red) , Nikon Coolpix AW100 (Orange) and Apple iPhone 4 (White) Find me on the web: Michael Chen Photo |Blog ("coming soon" since before the dinosaurs roamed the Earth)|SportsShooter | California Wildlife |
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#5 |
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Guanaco
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Hi Michael, I thought it was kind of wierd too, getting that advice, but the owner has been in business for 27 yrs, and that's what he said, and figured he would know whay he's talking about. It does make sense to have the meter and check your readings with the different lights on, but like I said, I have read it and he said it, so I thought you just check the readings on board.
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__________________
Jess www.CreativeInspirationsPhotography.com Nikon D70, 18-70mm, 50mm 1.8, 70-300 mm lenses, *new*Sigma 50-150mmII 2.8 3 photogenic Studiomax III lights SB-800 flash, Demb diffuser PSE 6 |
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#6 |
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Photocamel Master
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Jess,
If you are doing snapshots outdoors or with on camera flash you could get by without a handheld meter, but when using multiple flash units in a studio environment it is almost a given. Benji |
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In the end, people appreciate frankness more than flattery. Prov 28:23 |
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#7 |
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Guanaco
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As a matter of fact, I took some pics outside today. In this one, it looks like the background is rather dark, but other shots are contrasty, depending on where we shot the pics. I know her coat is distracting, but it was chilly out today, and down the road, there was even snow on the ground! Mac is usually very photogenic, but many pics look like shes sqinting, even with her back to the sun. I used on board fill flash for all of the ones I took today.
__________________
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__________________
Jess www.CreativeInspirationsPhotography.com Nikon D70, 18-70mm, 50mm 1.8, 70-300 mm lenses, *new*Sigma 50-150mmII 2.8 3 photogenic Studiomax III lights SB-800 flash, Demb diffuser PSE 6 |
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