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#1 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
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Hi folks
![]() I've read the debates on softboxes vs umbrellas and I'm guessing my preference would be to get a softbox for using on full length portraits. However, as has been pointed out these are fairly expensive, especially for a hobbyist like me. My question is what is the minimum size of softbox you more experienced folk would recommend for shooting full length portraits? Furthermore, would a big umbrella do a similar job (e.g. a shoot-through?). I suppose from what little I can pick up from the posts already, a bigger umbrella would equal a bigger spillage of light? Any suggestions will be gratefully received ![]() __________________
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#2 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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The idea behind using a softbox is to soften the shadows by increasing the effective SIZE of the light source... the same with an umbershoot but it will have more contrast. If you want soft shadows on a full length, standing human, you need a big softbox. Don't think how small you can get by on, think how big you can afford.
If you want dramaitic light falloff... which looks cool on figures, the box will need to be closer than the diagonal dimension of its face... which limits the length it can fully illuminate... which means a really big softbox, 60" minimum... which means a bloody expensive softbox... and you need a rotating speedring to go with it which is also pricey. But there is another way to get soft shadows... diffusion panels or scrims. If you have a 40" x 60" rectangular frame faced with translucent white fabric (china silk, ripstop nylon, curtain liner, etc.), you can put a light or two behind it and shoot them through to get the same effect. Its less efficient than a big softbox and if you don't control the spill you'll lose some contrast, but hey, you can make one with some 1" PVC pipe, (4) 90° elbows and couple of yards of fabric for next to nothing. Just a thought. |
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__________________
In the beginning the Universe was created. This has made a lot of people very angry and has been widely regarded as a bad move. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
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Thanks a million Blinky. I've done some reading and I'd thought as much. I might give the PVC piping a try, mind you I could then do with a couple of barndoors as well!
I'll keep on investigating the diffusion panel / scrim option ![]() Cheers! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
Location: Central Illinois (North of I-64, South of I-80)
Posts: 43
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CamelKarma: 27
Editing OK?: No
Gallery
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Blog
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While this may or may not apply, I thought of this article when I read this post.
http://www.rangefindermag.com/magazi...ge.taf?page=70 Bill |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Former Camel
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Quote:
if you would use a D-I-Y reflector as a main light source (reflecting/(re)directing and diffusing your flashgun's beam), you could have any size 'softbox' you want. For a song . . . ! Looky here for a how-to: http://www.photocamel.com/index.php/topic,3711.0.html. Or you could get snazzy pop-out reflectors, for a 100 bucks and up per . . . for essentially the same function. http://www.lastolite.com |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Llama
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http://www.alienbees.com/index.html
B800: http://www.alienbees.com/b800.html ($280) Light stand: http://www.alienbees.com/ls3900.html ($70) Giant Softbox: http://www.alienbees.com/softboxes_detail.html ($140) I would also get a second stand and a reflector/bounce (4-n-1 or 5-n-1) (http://www.alienbees.com/crk42.html @ $70). I shot a wedding with the B800 and a large softbox (32"x40") and had wonderful results (http://www.pbase.com/tonyk/image/32363043.jpg) This would be the minimal amount of equipment I would start with. From here you can build a very respectible, and portable, system. You could always opt for natural light and use reflectors and diffusion panels. ![]() Peace, |
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TonyK |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Alpaca
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TonyK thanks for the detail of you post
and including the picture.I already have a couple of decent strobes but I will cetainly investigate the costs of shipping some AlienBee stuff to the UK. I guess I need to find out whether I could cobble them onto my Bowens s-fit strobe! __________________
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