Help with Output Resolution!!!

[Klspurlo777]

I'm working with Canon's EOS Viewer Utility when I'm converting my RAW images to JPEG and when it asks me what I want my output resolutionn to be...(10-2000 pixels per inch)...what should I use I automatically assumed more was better but then the files were too much for me to even print them at the store...can anyone give me a tip on what to do or if there is a better program for this? I'm currently selecting 1000 pixels per inch and it is still too large...

[jfrancho]

I'll try to take a look at this tonight, if no one gets to it.

[grsphoto]

When working on file size there are two things to consider.

image size, and pixels per inch

Image size you should set for the size of the output ( 8x10, 5x7 etc)

pixels per inch is the resolution... higher is better within reason. 72 is what a lot of computer screens display, 150 is what some ink jet printers require, 300 is the max that a lot of print stores like.

So if you want to print out a 8x12, the settings for the file to give to the lab would be 8x12 at 300 pixels per inch.

hope this helps

Glenn

[Klspurlo777]

Thanks for the info...so if I set the pixels per inch to 300...it won't affect the print quality even if they print an 8x10 or 16x20

[Blinky]

It doesn't matter how many pixels per inch, it matters how many pixels total. Your RAW files should have a 'native' resolution, that is, the recommended file size based on the size and type of camera sensor. Sometimes it's an interpolated value, sometimes it's the working dimesions (in pixels) of your sensor. Check your manual and see if it explains the best resolution for your particular camera.

[jfrancho]

First of all, I assume that you are opening the RAW files in Raw Image Task from the EVU, or Zoombrowser. The DPI setting in this dialog is just informational - it has NO effect on the size or quality of the final output of the image file. Here is a funny little link to more about "dpi tags": http://www.scantips.com/no72dpi.html.

If your really concerned, set it to 300 dpi in the Save As dialog:



The bigger question is, why the heck aren't you using Digital Photo Professional? It's from Canon, it's free, and it works as well as any of the expensive, third party converters. Make sure you update to version 2.2. Get those updates here: http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/co...&modelid=10464, or go back through the Canon USA site for support for your camera. DPP offers a little more control with developing your raw files into images. Again, the DPI in the Save As dialog is purely an informational tag, and has no effect on the image quality:



A couple of things to note, if you are all done editing the image, save it as a .jpg. If you think you're going to edit it further, save it as a .tif. TIFF format will preserve the quality better, and when you're done editing, go ahead and save as a .jpg. Notice one other thing, I've checked the embed profile - MAKE SURE THEY CHECKED. For simplicity's sake, be sure your camera is set to sRGB (instead of Adobe RGB). Most commercial labs and local labs take only sRGB, and also it's the standard for the web. Unless you really know what you're doing with color space, leave it sRGB.

Now, for printing, most labs will do the upres for you, just load the full size image to their site, or take a copy (CD-R or DOD-R) of the full size image to your local lab. You'll probably have to crop the image a little bit, if the print size isn't the same aspect ratio as the camera sensor. For instance, to print an image made with my 20D, which is 2:3, at 8x10", then I'll have to crop a bit the long side to get it to 4:5. Most on line labs have a interactive crop tool that you can use when you order prints. It's a simple drag th mouse, crop here routine. Same with the kiosks at the local labs. Most use a touch screen.

Anyway, that's the basics of it - good luck!

[Klspurlo777]

Oh my gosh-thank you everyone so much for your input...and very detailed input!! I really appreciate it...one more question...on jfrancho's response...why am I needing to check the box marked "Embedded ICC profile in image"

[jfrancho]

That way color aware applications - most image editors - will render the image correctly. Non color aware apps, like most web browsers, assume system colors which on Windows happens to be sRGB, so you'll have all bases covered that way.

[Klspurlo777]

O.K. jfrancho, since you are one of the many who seem to know just about everything...I was reading another post on this forum where the person was asking about the saturation in pictures...you pointed them to the article titled "Give Your Photos a Velvia Touch-Making the Colors in Your Photos POP". I've been obsessed with the photographer: www.amysquires.com because the color in her pics is gorgeous...I emailed and asked what camera she used because I thought she had to be on film but she uses the Canon 5D, do you think she captures the colors or enhances them afterwards? If she enhances, do you think she does it the "Velvia" way?

[jfrancho]

I don't know "everything", but thanks. I'm convinced most everyone does a little something to their pictures, whether they admit it or not. What really helps these edits look so good is getting a perfect exposure. Then the editing isn't "fixing " a problem, which can take a lot of drastic and destructive editing. A good exposure will require just a little tweak here and there. Take a look at my bass lures thread in Macro and Close Ups, those are very saturated, and didn't need very much processing at all. It's all about good exposure, and good light if you're going for color. Any precessing tricks are just icing on the cake. When I figured that out, my pictures got a whole lot better real quick.