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#1 (permalink) |
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Photocamel Master
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Worm234, has made some excellent tutorials on how to use HDR software like photomatix and lightroom for getting a HDR image.
The whole process starts with making different exposures and for that part I present you 7 tips: Tip 1a: Always use a tripod Tip 1b: Handheld shots can work, but be sure to frame them as similarly as possible. Tib 2a: For making different exposures: do change the shuttertime, not the aperture. (the aperture influences the depth of field, that can have negative influence on the final result) Tip 2b: If your camera has an autobracket feauture: use it. Tip 3a: Suggested starting point is to make 5 exposures: -4,-2,0,2,4 EV. Tip 3b: The darkest exposure should have no pixels at 255 (i.e. as underexposed as can be), while the lightest exposure should likewise be totally overexposed. Tip 4: Higher contrast images should have a greater exposure range (more frames, bigger exposure difference). Tip 5: A subject without moving elements like a car (or even windy outdoor images) work best. Tip 6: If you have a remote or a timer on your camera: use them, because you greatly reduce the risk of camera movement. Tip 7: For postprocessing the images to a HDR read this tutorial. __________________
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#2 (permalink) |
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Camel Breath
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You can maximize your results by metering the brightest part of the scene, noting the shutter speed. Then meter the darkest part, and note the shutter. Then spread your exposures over that range of shutter speeds, rather than the arbitrary -4 to +4 range.
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¿ <°)))))>< |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Photocamel Master
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Great tips all !!
![]() Also be sure to Chimp the histogram to see your results before packing up Best, Jay |
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Jason Comments and suggestions always appreciated ![]() -Canon 40D, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS, Canon f/1.8 50mm, Sigma 10-20, Tamron 28-300, 508exII Flash -Canon Rebel XTI My Full Picture Gallery My Photography Portfolio |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Photocamel Master
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It just means to look at the histogram and go oo oo look at that
Basicalyy just check for blown highlights and stuff.Best, Jay |
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Jason Comments and suggestions always appreciated ![]() -Canon 40D, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS, Canon f/1.8 50mm, Sigma 10-20, Tamron 28-300, 508exII Flash -Canon Rebel XTI My Full Picture Gallery My Photography Portfolio |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Camel Breath
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Raw is not necessary if you are using 5 or more images, as there will be plenty of data to build a 32 bpc radiance file. It does help though, and I highly recommend using raw. One thing to keep in mind, if your brackets are one stop apart, make sure you are consistent with your exposure settings in the raw converter. If one is at 0, they should be at zero. Otherwise, you'll have to override Photomatix' interval, and calculate the EV difference for each file used for the HDRI.
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¿ <°)))))>< |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Photocamel Master
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Thats a great point John!!
Best, Jay |
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Jason Comments and suggestions always appreciated ![]() -Canon 40D, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS, Canon f/1.8 50mm, Sigma 10-20, Tamron 28-300, 508exII Flash -Canon Rebel XTI My Full Picture Gallery My Photography Portfolio |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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I'm going to attempt doing my first HDR picture I hope this weekend. Seeing all your great shots makes me want to learn the process. I have the Photomatix Pro software and CS2 so I should be set and I watched the video. My one question is can I shoot the 3 pictures I need to do this as jpegs instead of RAW files? I will be shoting with my 40D and 24-70 2.8L lens. Thanks.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Camel Breath
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Yes. But you'll want to lower the contrast and saturation from the default parameter settings, or use the faithful or neutral picture style. If you use five or more bracketed exposure, I'm not sure there will be any difference in the final quality of the resulting HDRI. Though my philosophy with images has always been to add as much quality as possible at each step of the work flow, and using RAW format is one of those activities. With raw, you can better control the contrast and detail with more consistency in the source images. In Jay's video, I believe he simply opens the raw files in Photomatix, whereas I convert them to 16 bpc tiff files in DPP or ACR.
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¿ <°)))))>< |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Thanks. I'm a pretty basic Photoshop user so some things I don't know how to do. I've never really done any shooting in raw. Maybe with this it's time to start if it's a little easier and makes the difference. Maybe i'll try both. Any other useful tips for me? Thanks again.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Guanaco
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I have been trying for ages. I have a couple of questions.
Do i use the exposure +/- or shutter speed? And what do i save it as in PS CS2? As in file type. Thanks everyone. |
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Body- Pentax K10D Lenses- Pentax FA 1:3-5.6 28-90mm, Sigma DG f4-5.6 70-300mm Other Gear- Wireless Remote, Lowepro EX180 Bag |
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