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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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I posted the same question on DPR.
I'm still learning to get the best RAW converter for my E-3. In the meantime I shoot RAW + Large JPEG. What are your settings on the E-3? Some of mine are: gradation normal / noise filter off / vivid / saturation 0 / sharpness 0. Any better ideas? (I thought I read somewhere that you, Paul, had your settings on -2 (saturation/sharpness?)? __________________
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#2 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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It really depends what you are trying to do. I normally shot NATURAL, saturation +1, noise filter off. Sometimes I shoot vivid, vivid saturation at + 1.
I turn SAT on or off depending the situation. - Raist |
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Raist3d Photographer & Tools/Systems/Gui Vid Games Programmer |
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#3 (permalink) |
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senses working overtime
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I found that I preferred -2 on both sharpness and contrast. They're easy to add later, whereas if it's a bit too contrasty or sharp out of camera then you've got more of a problem later. I've also found that the Auto gradation is similar - it'll often boost noise in shadows and that'll mean more work later. Shadow/Lightness in Photoshop is much more powerful and is obviously non-destructive, so I keep it set to normal.
In the end a lot of things that will affect the JPEG image can be done better in a proper editor setting - and obviously with the important ability to undo anything if you don't like it. Not that I'm a pure JPEG shooter - though I tend to have RAW + superfine JPEG as my default setting these days purely due to the much larger capacity CF cards we now have at our disposal. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Camel Breath
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I read that the settings exist for two reasons. One to allow individual preference for the camera user. The second for the fact that all the cameras/sensors they make are not exactly the same.
I would think the later is a smaller variable (okay, I hope it is), but I can see some thinking there... __________________
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