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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Hello to all.... I am looking for some advise as to which set up would be of the better choice. It will be for model shoots outdoors on a 30D.
#1... EF135 f2 L and the EF50 f1.4 #2... EF85 f1.8 and the EF50 f1.4 I guess it comes down to the 135 and 85..... Is the quality that much better on the 135 and does the longer FL flatter the model over the 85? I have a lot of room to work with so the longer length of the 135 is no problem. Thanks Scott __________________
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Canon... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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The longer glass will help compress and flatten the models features, giving a more flattering headshot.
All of the models that I shoot with have preferred headshots that we did at 200mm versus between 24 and 70. |
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Jon Scott Visual |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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![]() Scott |
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Canon... |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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since you're shooting with a 30d and considering the 1.6 crop factor, remember that the 85mm is gonna act like a 135mm and the 135mm is gonna act like a 200mm. but, and this is a big but, since it's a crop and not a magnification thing, the 1.6 factor is not gonna flatten features more... it's just a crop. 85, from that perspective, is gonna capture like an 85 and so forth. personally, i'd go with the 135 L cuz everything i read about that lens says it's magic! but if you're gonna shoot in a studio, you're gonna have to get quite far from the model to use it.
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Visit my (SFW) photography blog at http://ishootist.blogspot.com or my (NSFW) glamour photography blog at http://prettygirlshooter.blogspot.com |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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On the 30D I would opt for the 85mm 1.8 without a doubt.
Unless you always have alot of space between you and the model. For normal studio work I always used the 50mm 1.4 on the 20D, for the 5D I'm now using the 135mm f2.8 SF and the 85mm 1.8 and 90mm f2.8 Macro from Tamron, nothing lower in mm's. For the 30D I would therefor opt for the 85mm 1.8 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Thanks everyone for the replies.....I shoot outdoors and have a lot of room and for when I do run into a tight spot and want to do more full body shots I was going to get the 50 1.4........ So it sounds like the 135 will do along with the 50 1.4.......
Scott |
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Canon... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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senses working overtime
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I too would suspect the 135 may be a bit long on a 30D. The 135 is great for head and shoulder shots on a FF camera and does give you quite a flattering look due to it's length. If you may be moving towards FF in the future it could be a useful purchase to make. The 85 1.8 on the 30D would give a similar DoF to the 135 in FF and is also quite a bit cheaper, but I'm not the best person to give advice on sensible purchasing decisions...
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#9 (permalink) |
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Camel Breath
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135 is often too long on a 1.6x camera, yes. It's also badly in need of IS at that magnification level, IMO.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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F1 Camel
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Quote:
As the others said: the 135F2 is a bit more 'magical', but needs lots of room and a steady hand with a FoV of 200mmm+. The 85F1.8 IMHO is the better solution on a 30D if you go the prime-route. And: you could have both the focal lengths covered, and some, if zooms were in your spotlight, as either the 70-200F2.8 or the IS version would also do the trick? A lot heavier, and (the IS is a lot) more expensive than the 135F2, but could give you more flexibility indoor/outdoor. ) just an extra option to make the decision-process worse )Kindest regards! Max@Home |
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[Canon] [EF-S10-22] [EF16-35L II] [EF-S17-55IS] [EF24-70L] [EF28-300L IS] [EF70-200F2.8L IS] [EF100-400L IS] [EF50F1.4] [EF85F1.2L II] [EF100F2.8Macro] [EF 1.4x II] [430ex II] [580ex II] [ST-E2] [CP-E4] [BG-E2N] [EOS-1D Mk III] [EOS 40D] [PowerShot Pro1] [PowerShot G3] [CPS member] ...images ??... |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Dromedary
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I'm surprised that a pro like yourself didn't recognize that. |
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Jon Scott Visual |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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senses working overtime
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#15 (permalink) | |
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F1 Camel
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The OP wasn't concerned about the cost, but about the focal lenght. And my guess is, that he wants fast primes for DoF control and available-light photography. Shooting under studio lighting and studio conditions often doesn't require that kind of control, and at F8/F11, pretty 'normal' studio apertures, even the worse 'cokebottlebottom-wideopen' lenses can give pretty neat and certainly sellable results. Further, it is quite commonly known, that amateurs often have bigger/better/more and more expensive lenses than professional photographers. It is easier to spend leisure money while indulging in a passion, than to spend business money on a 'Tangible Asset' with a specific RoI - role )Kindest regards, Max@Home |
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[Canon] [EF-S10-22] [EF16-35L II] [EF-S17-55IS] [EF24-70L] [EF28-300L IS] [EF70-200F2.8L IS] [EF100-400L IS] [EF50F1.4] [EF85F1.2L II] [EF100F2.8Macro] [EF 1.4x II] [430ex II] [580ex II] [ST-E2] [CP-E4] [BG-E2N] [EOS-1D Mk III] [EOS 40D] [PowerShot Pro1] [PowerShot G3] [CPS member] ...images ??... |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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I am looking to go with the fast primes for a couple of reasons. Mainly the DOF, shooting wide open to make the subject "POP" from the background and also keep the background from being distracting. Another reason is having the fast prime will give me the option for indoor shooting without a flash if needed(rainy days) and last reason is the overall quality from shooting with a prime lens. My main shooting is wildlife which is during the winter and I use* 400 and 300 prime lenses and the image quality is amazing. I am looking to keep up the same level of quality with the modeling work I am getting into this summer. Hope this gives a better understanding of my choices. It has come down to either the 135 or the 85 f1.8.... I will be getting the 50 f1.4 for sure... Seems like more are saying the 85 1.8 is the way to go..... The locations I use do have a large area of space for me to work with the 135 f2 and most likely next year I will be buying a full frame body so the 135 has been my choice lens. Thanks again for all the replies... Scott |
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Canon... |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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