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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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did anyone know about this sensor cleaning
please replay __________________
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#2 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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Hi rosdister,
are you referring to a specific method/site? in that case the link doesn't show... ![]() ...if you are asking what *I/we* know about sensorcleaning, that's another question ![]() ...I use the 'Copperhil' method, described here Hope this helps some to get you started...*my* €0.02 worth... Kindest regards! Max@Home |
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[Canon] [EF-S10-22] [EF16-35L II] [EF-S17-55IS] [EF24-70L] [EF28-300L IS] [EF70-200F2.8L IS] [EF100-400L IS] [EF50F1.4] [EF85F1.2L II] [EF100F2.8Macro] [EF 1.4x II] [430ex II] [580ex II] [ST-E2] [CP-E4] [BG-E2N] [EOS-1D Mk III] [EOS 40D] [PowerShot Pro1] [PowerShot G3] [CPS member] ...images ??... |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Lubbock, Tx.
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I clean my sensors regularly, and those of a few of my competitors. That's why their always artworking out dots. LOL.*
Seriously, it's easier and safer than you think. Here's the steps for Canon EOS: Start with your camera either plugged in, or on a full battery charge. This is critical. Use the Sensor Swabs from Photographic Solutions 508-759-2322 (about $6 each). Use Eclipse optic cleaning fluid, also from Photograpic Solutions. (about $12 for 2 fluid ounces). www.photosol.com *Take a photograph of clear blue sky, no clouds. Expose normally, aperture selection does not matter. This will show you * * *EXACTLY where your spots are on your sensor. *Remove lens *In the menu, select "sensor cleaning", click OK *In the following dialog, you'll get the statement "turn off camera after sensor cleaning", click OK *The mirror will lock up, shutter will open esposing the sensor. *Use the swap with 4 or 5 drops of sesor cleaning fluid to wipe horizontally across the sensor several times in one direction. *Don't expect to get everything on the first try. *When your done, turn camera off to unlock the shutter and mirror. Take another photograph of clear blue sky and repeat the steps until you get it all. |
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M. Photog. Cr. Certified Professional Photographer F-TPPA, F-SPPPA |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Lubbock, Tx.
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I like the rocket blower too......there's just one issue it.
Static cling holds particles to the sensor filter. The blower can't always blow hard enough to break the clinging effect created by power to the sensor. Also, the RB blows dust off the sensor, into the body of the camera, where it will be sucked back onto the sensor when it's powered up again. By removing dust with a swap and cleaning solution, your removing it from the camera completely. |
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M. Photog. Cr. Certified Professional Photographer F-TPPA, F-SPPPA |
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#6 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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I use a Sensor Brush for most cases. When that fails to do the job, I use the method described by Mark although I use a sensor swab from Copperhill with a clean PecPad each time rather than the disposable ones.
The only thing that I'd add to Mark's comment about shooting blue sky to see the dust, I shoot at f/16 or f/22 when I do this. Maybe it doesn't make any difference, but I know that dust seems to appear more apparent in normal pictures when shot at stopped down apertures. |
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'A government big enough to give you everything you want, is big enough to take away everything you have. - Thomas Jefferson |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Guanaco
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Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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Lubbock, Tx.
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I can't tell the difference between a speck at F2.8 or F16.
The specks are actually on the film plane, not being tranferred there by a lens aperture, so theoritically, aperture wouldn't affect it at all. But I may be totally wrong here...so I think we should find out for sure...I think this is need to know info. Next sensor cleaning, I'll test it at different apertures and post the photos. Let's see what comes up. |
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M. Photog. Cr. Certified Professional Photographer F-TPPA, F-SPPPA |
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#10 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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Hi Mark!
you never did so already ![]() you are in for a surprise, me thinks ![]() (I've done those tests, IMHO and in my experience more dust is more visible when closing down aperture, I always test w/50F1.4 @F4/F8/F13, and 'clean' at F4 mostly means 'still dirty' at F8 in *my* book) And as you said, best way to find out is do the tests yourself the next cleaning-time. ...*my* €0.02 worth... My kindest regards, Max@Home |
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[Canon] [EF-S10-22] [EF16-35L II] [EF-S17-55IS] [EF24-70L] [EF28-300L IS] [EF70-200F2.8L IS] [EF100-400L IS] [EF50F1.4] [EF85F1.2L II] [EF100F2.8Macro] [EF 1.4x II] [430ex II] [580ex II] [ST-E2] [CP-E4] [BG-E2N] [EOS-1D Mk III] [EOS 40D] [PowerShot Pro1] [PowerShot G3] [CPS member] ...images ??... |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Let's try this again. The last time I tried to post this the whole site seemed to disappear...
The dust does show up more distinctly at smaller apertures. At wide apertures the light is coming from a larger area of the lens and spreads out more and fills in the shadows around the dust (the dust is on the glass plate in front of the sensor, so there is a little bit of depth). At smaller apertures the light is more collimated and gives a harder edge to the dust and makes it more visible. As noted, it should be easy to test. And I recently saw some interesting discussion about electrical charges in digital cameras at: http://www.adobeforums.com/cgi-bin/w...@.3bc21cc7/127 John |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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thank you for all the tip and
i will consider thank's again __________________
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