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#1 |
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Dromedary
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I am considering the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 or the Tonika 28 80 f/2.8 does anyone have any input on these. Are the fine for portrait work or am I on the wrong track?
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#2 |
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Photocamel Master
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Hi captlen,
On what body do you mount them? 1.6x/1.3x/FullFrame? Regards, Max@Home |
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[All Canon] [EF16-35L II] [EF24-70L] [EF24-105L IS] [EF28-300L IS] [EF70-200F2.8L IS] [EF100-400L IS] [EF50F1.4] [EF85F1.2L II] [EF135F2.0L] [EF 1.4x II] [270ex] [430ex II] [580ex II] [ST-E2] [CP-E4] [EOS-1D Mk III] [EOS 5D MkII with BG-E6] [CPS Europe member] ...PBase images ?? ...or: SmugMug images ?? |
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#3 |
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Alpaca
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Depends. I use the Tamron on a 20D in the studio all the time, but if you're trying to get a really close headshot you'll feel like you're standing on your subject's toes. It'll work though, and it's a great lens for couples and groups.
Very close to the model for this shot... ![]() |
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If you're not moving forward, you're probably in somebody's way! |
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#4 |
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Vicuna
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If you are doing mainly portratit works in a studio, you may actually be better off by having TWO Canon primes - one for the headshot and one for the full body shot. As Max rightly pointed out, the appropriate focal length will depend on the crop factor of your camera.
The obvious advantages of having two primes will be: 1. Better image quality; 2. Larger aperture - hence better/faster focusing 3. Lighter weight The flexibility of a zoom does not really help you inside a studio. Just my 2p. Cheers KH |
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From Zero to Hero |
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#5 |
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Vicuna
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The 2 lenses mentioned should be fine for studio portrait work (especially considering that with studio lights and backdrops you would most likely use those lenses well stopped down).
I prefer a 30/1.4 EX and EF 50/1.4 for portraits myself, but I don't do any studio work. I LOVE my 80-200/2.8L for headshots. BTW, what other lenses do you already have? Best regards, Andy |
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#7 |
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Vicuna
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As the 10D is a 1.6x crop body, conventional wisdom would suggest something in the 50-85 mm range for portraits, and maybe 20-30 mm for full body shots (suggestion on a 35 mm full frame body is 85-135 mm).
So the lenses you mentioned should give you a useful working distance (maybe a bit too short for headshots). Best regards, Andy |
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#8 |
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Dromedary
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I currently have the tokina 12-24 and canon 28-105 3.5-4.5. I do some wedding and special event also and fine that I use the tokina a lot but that many times is too wide angle. i am thinking that one of thsees might serve well there also. I do feel that I need a faster galss than I have now.
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#9 |
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Vicuna
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Again ... I am not a studio photographer.
However, good studio images I have seen (e.g. JAF Doorhof's work) typically are shot @ f/5.6-f/8, as there is not such a big need to isolate the model from the background (can be done with backdrops and lighting). Your 28-105 should be quite fine in that aperture range (but I agree, the other lenses would be nice) Of course ... Larry's great image in this thread is a good example of an f/2.8 image. Obviously, his Tamron is sharper than my copy... Best regards, Andy |
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#10 |
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Bactrian
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The 28-75 is an excellent lens, it was great until I got my 24-70.
I don't have many in studio with the 28-75 but here's a sample of it with natural lightiing. ![]() |
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#11 |
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Bactrian
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Interesting subject - I use a 50mm 1.4 for 85% of my studio shots and then a 28MM 2.8 for the full bofy I have a 350d so 1x1.6 equtes 80mm and 45 mm on a full frame. However my question is:-
Is a slower lens with better glass an improved option for studio work? i.e. end up with a minimum stop of say 3.5 but get a Canon L lens? Thoughts please. |
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#12 | |
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Photocamel Master
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Quote:
Interesting question, I am interested in the opinions of our studioshooters too )But for practicality: all Canon Prime Lenses, L or not L, in the range you suggest (24/28/35/50/85/100/135/200) are 'fast glass', F2.8 or faster, so you might *like* to buy an improved EF 28mm F3.5L, but that lens is not available ![]() In 'zoomland', with 2 exceptions, you can either get 'L' zooms that are F2.8 or F4, or the 'better consumer zooms' that ranges from F3.5-F4.5, or the 'consumer-consumer' zooms that range from F4/F4.5 to F5.6/F6.3. And... I know at least one studio-shooter overhere that shot a 24-85F3.5-F4.5 for a long time, before upgrading to a 24-70F2.8L )...FWIW, *my* €0.02... Kindest regards, Max@Home |
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[All Canon] [EF16-35L II] [EF24-70L] [EF24-105L IS] [EF28-300L IS] [EF70-200F2.8L IS] [EF100-400L IS] [EF50F1.4] [EF85F1.2L II] [EF135F2.0L] [EF 1.4x II] [270ex] [430ex II] [580ex II] [ST-E2] [CP-E4] [EOS-1D Mk III] [EOS 5D MkII with BG-E6] [CPS Europe member] ...PBase images ?? ...or: SmugMug images ?? |
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#13 |
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Lubbock, Tx.
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Len,
Here's the good news.... I prefer the Tamron 28-200 F3.8-5.6 over my Canon 70-200 F2.8 IS. ($400 vs. $1700). The Tamron is just scary sharp. I use it exclusively in studio on the 20D and 30D's. __________________
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