Ball head vs Pan & Tilt

[seab3]

I'm in the market for a new tripod and was wondering what are the advantages of the different types of heads. Does a Ball head perform some tasks better than a Pan & Tilt? I'm curious what others here preferr and why.

Thanks

Rich

[gryphonslair99]

Pan/Tilt head:
Pros: Easy to adjust in small increments just where you want it, one plane at a time. Sturdy.
Cons: Cumbersome to adjust. You are making adjustments one plane at a time. Head is cumbersome to haul around.
Personal Recommendation: Studio work, product shoots, architectural shoot, fine detail shoots.

Ball Head:
Pros: Easy to adjust quickly in all planes at once. Smaller in size. Stable, low center of gravity. Compact, easy to haul around.
Cons: Unless you are willing to pay big money for a top of the line ball head you will usually get a small amount of creep when you lock the ball. Unless you either pay attention or have one with separate friction control it is easy to loosen the ball lock too much and have camera flop unless you are supporting it with the other hand. Ball heads without a separate panning control are hard to use for panorama shots.
Personal Recommendation: Best all around compromise for a field setup. Easier to use and carry for general field work.

Side handle ball head:
Pros: Easy to adjust quickly and accurately. Stable with general use glass. With add on shutter release it is easy to adjust and shoot without moving your hand away.
Cons: Not as easy to haul around as a standard ball head. Not designed for bigger glass. Usually no separate panning feature.
Personal Recommendation: Excellent in studio for portrait type work.

[kenwae]

I went with the ball head and think the pros listed above cover it; for my use, it's just alot easier, quicker and more convenient yet quite stable. There is a slight bit of creep initially when setting it, so i compensate for that by setting the point of focus a bit high and it creeps down a hair, it's then stable and remains where its put.

[moggi1964]

I recently purchased the Markins M-20 and it is first class. Small, light and with a torque screw that works by using your thumb to set it. I can change from a 14-42 to a 50-200 and be perfectly balanced (with no creep)in less than a minute.

It wasn't cheap (though i did get it when Microsoft Live was offering 30% cashback) but it is definitely wirth every penny of the asking price IMHO.

[machmode]

ball head is the only way to go.

[seab3]

Great info, Thanks for your input
Rich

[rshunk]

One of the best and easiest heads to use: Bogen / Manfrotto | 322RC2 Grip Action Ballhead | 322RC2 | B&H



Bob S.

[aam1234]

Thanks for the info, gryphonslair99.

(a K is on its way).

[sunway_ray]

I found that now the Germany FLM company and a China manufacturer they have produced a series of Ballheads that have combined the flexibility and stability of the Ballhead and the 3-axis, pan-tilt type of tripod head. That means it does not only can do any angle photography but also go on 360 degree panning . my email: beese@tom.com

[seab3]

Very cool

[xxloverxx]

From my experience, ball heads with even a little bit of creep are an absolute pain to use when doing macro work/tele shots. Given my choice, I'd use a pan-tilt with a rail for accurate camera distance-to-subject adjustment. Also I find ball heads quite difficult to use when doing panoramas, or maybe it could be that I'm missing a level. I typically do panoramas handheld, resting on a rail or something, which works for all but >180º shots.

[gryphonslair99]

As with most things you get what you pay for. This has none of the defects that you described. I love it, just not the price. Really Right Stuff Ballheads
The BH-55 PLC is great for those shooting a lot of Panno's. The standard BH-55Pro is no slouch for panning either.

[iconoclast]

seab3, hello.

I use a 055XProb tripod and a 410 head; both by manfrotto.

I like macro work so I chose a gear head. it allows you to incrementally shift the head on 3 axis. this particular one allows you to unlock the gear and turn it, not exactly paning like a pan-tilt but not so bad either when doing multiple shots for panoramic.
there are no open gears so walking through nature isnt an issue.
it's heavy and solid; it'll support a lot; esp since one often uses various focus rails with it.
I also find it very useful for landscape shots. I can adjust it little by little so that framing it just right in camera is not an issue.

I use the RC4 plates that are integrated into the head. some people have difficulty with this plate saying its difficult to unlatch but once you have it oriented correctly its very easy to apply the force needed. I bought an extra base and plate to attach to my focus rail setup and leave a plate on my camera at all times.

when discussing heads you really have to discuss the legs too. you can't put a heavy duty head on flimsy legs. I chose the 055XProb legs because they will last a long time, are stable and heavy (but not too heavy for me), pretty cheap (good bang for your buck here I think. aluminum is cheaper than fiberglass), and I got the larger one since I'm on the taller end. Also this tripods center column can adjust horizontally and I was stoked for the weird angles I could get for macro. (It takes some getting used to). Mind you they have the same model without the horizontal column. I prefer a non geared column due to wear and the time it takes to crank. Also this tripod has independent legs. From my research these are about the cheapest good quality, rugged legs you can get that aren't toys.

I think a head decision is really based on what you like to shoot, plenty of people rack up many tripods and heads based upon different needs.

[Ben_V]

One thing, that should be considered is pricing. In my experience a cheap 3D head performs better, is more stable, than a likewise cheap ball head. To really get a good ball head, you have to invest more, but in my personal optinion, that is a worthy investment. I got totally rid of all 3D heads long ago, though I keep one a my cupboard for the unlikely occasion, where I really need it...

I never considered the "grip-action" heads, as they are all fairly small in terms of capacity, but they sure have applicaitons, especially for sprts etc. - But for longer lenses, nothing beats a gimbal mount, anyway...
Ben

[Ed Shapiro]

You need both~

In portraiture, I use a technique called subtle tilting. I tilt the camera slightly (side to side) in order to create more dynamic lines in certain kinds of theatrical and general work, I do not use this method when there is any vertical or horizontal points of reference in the background. This works well with solid or mottled backgrounds in random patterns. I restrict this methods to head and shoulders portraits and tight head shots. The ball head makes this method east to carry out. I can start with an extreme tilt and work my way back in seconds until I see the exact effect that I am looking for. With a good ball head I can adjust the tension so that I can move the camera around without having it fall forward or sideways. I recommend the ball heads made by Monfrotto and Arca Swiss.

For very precise architectural and commercial work and/or where heavier cameras are used such as medium format or view cameras, there is nothing like a good old heavy duty conventional tripod/pan head. I have a very heavy Monfrotto head and a few older heads on hand for those usages. I have an old Majestic which works on gears and a crank mechanism and have seen them around on the used market. These heavy heads lock very positively and can just about support a house but the also need a heavy duty tripod to take their weight plus that of the camera. The only warning I have pertaining to theses big heads is don't drop them on your foot!

I know this thread is about tripod heads but let's not forget the tripods. I have found that it is better to overkill than under kill when it comes to tripod stability. There are some models on the market that just don't cut it, especially when telephoto lenses are used. Cheap tripods also have poor locking devices on their legs and won't stand up well in constant use. Good tripods to consider are made by Monfrotto, Gitzo, Velbon (higher end models) and Benbo. If you do close up work in the field look for models with reversible center columns to enable macro work in the field. I find a ball head very handy for this usage as well.

I hope this helps. Ed

[seanhoxx]

Any comments or advice on monopods and heads? I am thinking about a Manfrotto the one that has the 3 legs in the base for some free standing ability, I don't recall the model # off the top of my head. also thinking about a grip action ball head with a pretty heavy load capacity. I do lots of sports shooting and crowded out events is why I am thinking monopod, tamron 70-200 2.8 would likely be the LIGHTEST glass to go on it so just not sure about a ball head even grip action. Any input?

[Ed Shapiro]

Although nothing is better as a camera support than a solid tripod, a monopod with a medium weight ball head is a good second runner up when tripod usage is impractical, prohibited or impossible. The type with small tripod legs at the bottom does not help very much but there are ones with an "L" shaped food that can assist in securing the end of the monopod with your own foot or by wrapping you legs around the monopod with one foot on that bracket.

When using longer lenses it is best to support the lens with the monopod rather than the camera body.

To maximize the effectiveness of a monopod we have to remember some of the very basic triggering or tripping methods- old stuff but good to remember. Squeeze the shutter release- don't hit it. Use a cable release, an electronic wire release, a remote release and in certain cases a hand grip with a cable or electrical release may help, Take that deep breath when exposing and prevent ground vibration from being conducted to the camera via the monopod.

I hope this helps.

Ed

[Ben_V]

Originally Posted by seanhoxx

Any comments or advice on monopods and heads? I am thinking about a Manfrotto the one that has the 3 legs in the base for some free standing ability, I don't recall the model # off the top of my head. also thinking about a grip action ball head with a pretty heavy load capacity. I do lots of sports shooting and crowded out events is why I am thinking monopod, tamron 70-200 2.8 would likely be the LIGHTEST glass to go on it so just not sure about a ball head even grip action. Any input?

I am not so sure a grip action head is a good choice for a monopod, as I think, you'ld need three hands, to use it:

• 1st hand to hold the camera an push the trigger
• 2nd hand to lead the grip head
• 3rd hand to stabilize the monopod...

I am using a simple ballhead, which I have basically loose on the monopd and hold the camera with both hands (one on the body, one on the lens), pressing the camera/lens a bit down on the monopod. This eleminates vertical shake and the ball action reduces any sideways shake. I can heartily recommend the Novoflex Ball 30, which is fairly cheap, carries 4 kgs (I use it with a 70-200/2.8 + tc or sometimes even with a 400/5.6 lens and a heavy camera (Pentax K20+battery grip) and it is very reliable, though basic (no tension screw, no pano action - but I wouldn't need that on a monopod).

Ben

[lovelysri]

Originally Posted by Ben_V

I am not so sure a grip action head is a good choice for a monopod, as I think, you'ld need three hands, to use it:

• 1st hand to hold the camera an push the trigger
• 2nd hand to lead the grip head
• 3rd hand to stabilize the monopod...

I am using a simple ballhead, which I have basically loose on the monopd and hold the camera with both hands (one on the body, one on the lens), pressing the camera/lens a bit down on the monopod. This eleminates vertical shake and the ball action reduces any sideways shake. I can heartily recommend the Novoflex Ball 30, which is fairly cheap, carries 4 kgs (I use it with a 70-200/2.8 + tc or sometimes even with a 400/5.6 lens and a heavy camera (Pentax K20+battery grip) and it is very reliable, though basic (no tension screw, no pano action - but I wouldn't need that on a monopod).

Ben

very good dear

[gryphonslair99]

Originally Posted by seanhoxx

Any comments or advice on monopods and heads? I am thinking about a Manfrotto the one that has the 3 legs in the base for some free standing ability, I don't recall the model # off the top of my head. also thinking about a grip action ball head with a pretty heavy load capacity. I do lots of sports shooting and crowded out events is why I am thinking monopod, tamron 70-200 2.8 would likely be the LIGHTEST glass to go on it so just not sure about a ball head even grip action. Any input?

For sports I would not recommend a monopod with a quick release clamp only. My preference is for an Arca-swiss quick release system. It's more expensive but the most secure and adaptable. When on the sidelines I have my 400 f2.8 on a monopod and orientation is done with the lens ring. For short glass I have L brachets on my bodies. With an Arca-swiss QR system you can equip the body with an L bracket that allows for landscape or portrait mode with the body and you keep the weight centered over the rig.

Personally I find a ball head on a monopod to detract from the purpose of the monopod in the first place. It's fine if you want to shoot in landscape mode, but drop it to the side for portrait mode and you weight is now hanging from the side of a single legged stick. Not the most stable platform.

Here is a little trick I picked up from a Fashion photographer out in LA.
This monopod: Gitzo | GM3551 6X Carbon Fiber Monopod - Supports 39.6 | GM3551
With this QR:Really Right Stuff ... The High Capacity Monopod Solution (He used to use a modified manfrotto) Really Right Stuff ... The Low Capacity Monopod Solution
With this on top modified for Arca-swiss.Custom Brackets: Camera Brackets, Flash Brackets, Camera Accessories

An expensive setup, but provides great stability in all orientations.