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#1 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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I recently threw together a basic colour correction tutorial for members of a local forum and thought i'd put it here for download. It's a pdf document. I thought it might be too simple for most people but surprisingly plenty of people said it was too advanced.
Here is a link to the file: http://www.outdoorphoto.co.za/forum/...p?t=296&page=1 Maybe Jay can embed it here as I can't 'cause it's 650k Please let me know if it helped you. Cheers __________________
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Mark Thomas www.markthomas.co.za "Judge art not by what others say, but how it makes you feel" |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Cheers Mark,
I'm sure everyone will appreciate you sharing this; I certainly do!! I haven't had a chance to go through it all yet, and perhaps I know most of it anyway - but what I think really matters is that the information is here. If everyone who has such things to share puts them onto this site, it will soon become a wonderful source of data! |
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Neil<br />_________________________________________________ _______________________________<br />I now shoot mostly with a 5D & 16-35 f/2.8L;<br />I also shoot with Olympus Zuiko OM lenses on a 10D, and a Canon G2 P&S;<br />When I shoot film, I usually use an Olympus OM-1N, or a Hasselblad 500C + Carl Zeiss 80mm f/2.8 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Thanks. As I said it's simple and will probably be below what most people need, but it might help a newbie out a lot, without being too difficult to follow. It was posted on a beginner forum.
Cheers |
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Mark Thomas www.markthomas.co.za "Judge art not by what others say, but how it makes you feel" |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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No problems - I know where you're coming from; and I'll still look over it with an open mind - I don't care where I learn new things: if there are things for me to learn in your tutorial, then I'll learn them!!
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Neil<br />_________________________________________________ _______________________________<br />I now shoot mostly with a 5D & 16-35 f/2.8L;<br />I also shoot with Olympus Zuiko OM lenses on a 10D, and a Canon G2 P&S;<br />When I shoot film, I usually use an Olympus OM-1N, or a Hasselblad 500C + Carl Zeiss 80mm f/2.8 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Llama
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Where's the pdf? I only saw a lot of posts in a forum and no pdf files from markthomas. I must be blind. (Read, I get easily confused when I get linked from one discussion forum to another and have no clue why I don't get the info I was looking for "straight away").
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/Petra Hall -* photo critique is welcome! |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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Quote:
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Neil<br />_________________________________________________ _______________________________<br />I now shoot mostly with a 5D & 16-35 f/2.8L;<br />I also shoot with Olympus Zuiko OM lenses on a 10D, and a Canon G2 P&S;<br />When I shoot film, I usually use an Olympus OM-1N, or a Hasselblad 500C + Carl Zeiss 80mm f/2.8 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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The second last post on the page - by Hedrus reads
Here is a very nice tutorial Mark has prepared for you. He shows you an easy way to work with curves. You can download it here, it is a PDF doc. Click on the here and it will download |
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Mark Thomas www.markthomas.co.za "Judge art not by what others say, but how it makes you feel" |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Interesting document - I'm curious, what's the reason you set white and black points to 245 / 8 luminance respectively? Won't that just decrease the overall dynamic range of the image? I'd have assumed 255 and 0 were a better choice...
Cheers, Tim. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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Good question Tim. Different folks like to use different settings. Scott Kelby suggets 240 and 20 in one of his books. To me 245 and 8 seems to leave detail in the shadow and highlight areas. When you pull down the middle point of the curves to darken the midtones you also darken the shadows - leaving some leeway is a good idea. The other thing is I come from a design background and we know there must be dot in the shadows and highlights.
You can use 255 and 0 if you want, but try other settings and see for yourself. Cheers |
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Mark Thomas www.markthomas.co.za "Judge art not by what others say, but how it makes you feel" |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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I did wonder if it was to do with printing - I know the gamut of CMYK is much lower than pure RGB. I generally use 255 and 0, but that's because almost all of my work is for the web, where absolute black and white aren't a problem. Thanks for the explanation.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Vicuna
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Quote:
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Canon 10D, Sigma 15-30, Canon 50 mm f/1.8 Canon 28-135 mm IS, Canon 70-200 MM f4. Optech strap!<br />(Plus some quality worthless Minolta 8000i gear) <br /><br />Update - the 10D and the 28-135 for sale due to imminent (I hope) arrival of 5D plus 24-105L IS.<br /><br />Feel free to edit and repost anything I post. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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I've contacted the administrator - they have upgraded the server and the link was lost they'll fix it. I'll keep you posted.
Cheers |
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Mark Thomas www.markthomas.co.za "Judge art not by what others say, but how it makes you feel" |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Vicuna
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The kink in the link has been fixed. Here it is anyway:
http://www.outdoorphoto.co.za/hedrus...n%20screen.pdf Cheers __________________
__________________
Members don't see this ad. Register your free account today and become a member on PhotoCamel - Your Friendly Photo Community, gaining access to posting privileges, contests, free plug-ins and other downloads, unlimited online storage for your photographs, reviews, free marketplace listings, and much more. |
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__________________
Mark Thomas www.markthomas.co.za "Judge art not by what others say, but how it makes you feel" |
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