Filters

[.exz0r]

What filters do you use for your lenses? Also what is the difference between a $189 dollar UV filter:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

and a $24 dollar UV filter:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

Are you paying for the name or is there an actual quality difference between the two?

[JDArt]

I don't use any UV filters -- and certainly wouldn't use a cheap one, as they'll color the image. Use a lens cap -- comes with your lens.

Polarizers have a use, as do ND filters, but UV filters I haven't touched in 8 years.

[Rokcet Scientist]

Originally Posted by .exz0r

What filters do you use for your lenses?

UV and polarizer.
In the 35mm film days I used a whole set of about 20 Cokin optical filters (still got 'm). Nowadays only their digital counterparts (in PS, GraphicConverter*, PS Elements, and PhotoLine32*).

* free downloadable shareware: http://www.lemkesoft.com/en/index.htm, http://www.pl32.com/.

Also what is the difference between a $189 dollar UV filter:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

and a $24 dollar UV filter:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

Are you paying for the name or is there an actual quality difference between the two?

If your supplier is trustworthy (and not trying to con you) there is indeed a marked quality difference.

[ohenry]

I use a Singh-Ray Polarizer filter, a Singh-Ray Variable ND filter, and HiTech Graduated ND filters via Cokin filter holder.

I have absolutely NO use for a UV filter.

[cyclohexane]

No UV filters.* Digital sensors don't like having that extra flat plane of glass added in front of them.* Even the best UV filters (say, B+W) take away a tiny bit of contrast, and the cheaper ones steal sharpness and contrast, and some really cheap ones create flare-up spots with certain lenses.* Old film stock needed UV filtration, but modern film stock hasn't needed it for years, and neither does digital.* There will be little perceptible difference, even at high altitudes.


Like Jay said, if you want to protect your lens, use the lens cap.* Also use the hood.* Many photojournalists don't use lens caps to keep themselves speedy and make sure they don't lose a shot in the heat of the moment, especially when making a hail mary shot, and in that case, a UV filter would be considered a "shoot-through" lens cap.* I personally just make capping/uncapping second nature (i.e. cap off before mounting lens), and that solves the problem.* Also, I use "pinch-front" lens caps, which are easily removed with the hood affixed forwards, so I can leave my hoods on face forwards when space is available in my bag.

I carry a Polarizer for reflection control, playing with the skies, etc. and a UV filter just in case there's an odd chance I might need it for some special shots, i.e. shooting a toy boy/arrow at the lens, but I haven't mounted the UV filter in a long, long time. I don't have any NDs in my kit right now, but I will add the expensive Vari-ND from Singh Ray, eventually.

[Rokcet Scientist]

If digital cams have a color cast, it's most often bluish.
That bluish cast is, also most often, UV-light!
Don't want that? Then you have 2 options:
– neutralize it before exposure, with a UV filter, or
– repair it after exposure, in PP.

The first is a lot less labor intensive. A time saver.

You choose. :

[cyclohexane]

I use "Cloudy" as my WB for sunny days. Solves the problem without adding glass to the optical formula.

[Rokcet Scientist]

Originally Posted by cyclohexane

I use "Cloudy" as my WB for sunny days.* Solves the problem without adding glass to the optical formula.

That would work too. Sort of. Because that neutralizes too much blue (in sunny circumstances). Compared to a UV filter that's too crass a method. Which must then be mitigated again in PP. So that sort of defeats the object of the exercise, cyclo!

I still remember my carpentry teacher's very first lesson (40 years ago) vividly: "If you want to drive in a nail, use a hammer. Not a screwdriver. I.o.w. Use appropriate tools! ".
That advice has proven to save me a lot of hassle!

[cyclohexane]

My target audience likes the too-warm look found with using "Cloudy".* I use "Shade" for cloudy days (or with a polarizer attached), and people like the color there too.* I've never needed to remove the over-the-top blue neutralization rendered under "Cloudy -2" in PP.* They don't want accurate color; they want color they like, and cloudy gives it to them.* I'm not going to be snobby and not sell to those who don't demand accurate color.* Money is money, no matter who it's from.* If I was shooting in, say, Japan, then I'd probably be cooling my color off, but then I'd just look like everyone else, and I wouldn't be differentiating.

Sunny, fine-tuned in-camera, produces a clean image with just the right amount of blue, and so does a custom WB using a white object.* No UV filters needed; a custom WB with the UV filter attached would compensate for the UV's warming effect, anyhow.* If your camera doesn't have WB finetuning where you can push/pull the color temperature around, well, then, maybe you'd need the UV filter, but I've not needed it.

[Rokcet Scientist]

Not everyone can (or wants to) afford lenses with a top notch UV filter coating. They're expensive ! (E.g. L glass).
In those cases a UV filter is a good, and affordable, alternative.
Explicitly conceived, designed, and manufactured for that job.

[cyclohexane]

I think you're making the assumption that I only use expensive glass. My kit lens and 50mm f/1.8 do not exhibit UV problems, and they're my most used lenses. Modern lenses don't pass enough UV for a pronounced effect; if they do, then they're crappy, or their multicoating is gone.

[.exz0r]

Alrighty thanks for the replies, I understand a polarizer gets rid of reflections or glare off of glass, water or anything non-metallic that reflects light into your lens... in some cases you would maybe want that in a picture right? If you had a circular polarizer filter would you want to leave it on all the time? I know I want a filter because I want to protect my lens, yes a lens cap would work but the lens will still get dirty. I posted this on dpreview.com and someone made a good point saying, "I would rather clean the filter than the lens."

[Jon]

Originally Posted by .exz0r

I know I want a filter because I want to protect my lens, yes a lens cap would work but the lens will still get dirty. I posted this on dpreview.com and someone made a good point saying, "I would rather clean the filter than the lens."

Why would you buy a $900 piece of glass and then put a $9 (or even $199) piece of glass in front of it? You've just effectively made your investment in that hotrod lens equal in value (in all respects) to the filter.

That having been said, I put a clear filter on my short lens when I shoot in nightclubs, simply for the way-too-often-experienced "fingerprint factor" (or beer splash, etc). They're bar snapshots - gnat's eyelash quality isn't expected.

Otherwise, my glass is bare (with hood).

What *you* will do is what *you* find gives *you* the best results that *you* and/or your clients are happiest with, not what a bunch of prattlers on a message board are saying to do.

[Rokcet Scientist]

Originally Posted by .exz0r

Alrighty thanks for the replies, I understand a polarizer gets rid of reflections or glare off of glass, water or anything non-metallic that reflects light into your lens... in some cases you would maybe want that in a picture right?

Of course. So don't polarize in those cases then.

If you had a circular polarizer filter would you want to leave it on all the time?

No, because it cuts up to 2,5 stops of light.

I know I want a filter because I want to protect my lens, yes a lens cap would work but the lens will still get dirty. I posted this on dpreview.com and someone made a good point saying, "I would rather clean the filter than the lens."

Wrong answer (stupid too). Use appropriate tools : a filter is for filtering. Not for 'protection'. A lens cap is for protection.

[Max@Home]

.exz0r,

I use Canon Protect 'filters' (actually clear optical grade glass elements) to protect my lenses.

...and hoods, and caps when stored...

...like Jon said, just what makes *me* feel safe

Kindest regards!

Max@Home

[Max@Home]

Originally Posted by Rokcet Scientist

...a filter is for filtering. Not for 'protection'. A lens cap is for protection.

...last time I tried, I couldn't shoot through the cap...

...a cap IMHO is for protection when NOT in use/stored, when in use/engaged: use hoods to protect, and if The Elements make it *really* necessary maybe try a Protect filter

...€0.02...

Max@Home

[.exz0r]

Ok thanks for all the replies they were very helpful!