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#1 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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Following instructions (from an old instruction sheet from my fim days) on how to place a KODAK GREY CARD under house or studio lights, I aimed my incdent paper reader at a point halfway between the subject and light source (suggested by the instruction sheet) to set EV working with HISTOGRAM BOX.
I did NO WORK except cropping on the P C - not even color corrections. This is what the cam gave me. My light is a table lamp with a dimmer switch. __________________
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Norm Dunne Lover of Old Master Painters and Paintings. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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It looks all right.
but hard to say if that table is that true colour to your eyes as you have the table not I as it does look good the natural colour of the table. Cheers |
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Have A Great Day Body Canon Rebel XTI - And a bag full of goodies.
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#3 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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My table wood is darker than sand , but not mid brown either, and I only used the table lamp for light. In this image, I was not concerned with the accuracy of the table or even the cups re color - mainly just overall exposure accuracy. In time I will be working on that part - color accuracy under certain conditions.
My idea here was to see how accurate the overall exposure was - placing the INCIDENT READER facing the same direction as the CARD. When I look at the overall image,- COLOR and BLACK and WHITE - the accuracy of the INCIDENT READER did not do too bad - exposure wise. I will be studying this idea of using the meter following the placement of the GREY CARD diagrams much further as I work on my images. |
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Norm Dunne Lover of Old Master Painters and Paintings. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Dromedary
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Judging from the shadow areas inside the mugs it looks pretty good, Norm.
Looking at a histogram, it appears there is still a fair bit of room on the highlight end, if one likes to play at that end as I do. Interesting experiment. |
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Gord A photograph is usually looked at, seldom looked into. Ansel Adams www.symplimages.com |
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#5 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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Gord
My thanks for the kind words. When I see how this image turned out, I think I will spend much more of my time in composition study than foolin' around on here in the art programs. For so long, I have made a 'glorious mess' and lost images 'foolin' with all the art program controls - and I am now starting to take a different look at what direction I want my images to go. |
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Norm Dunne Lover of Old Master Painters and Paintings. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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Following is an image done where I pointed my INCIDENT READER over the cam lens at 90 degrees to a line from the light to the far subject on the chesterfield. I used the same material that I use for the INCIDENT READER over the flash head on this one.
The balance of the flash and table lamp was quite accurate here. What I was looking for was - the exposure accuracy of the image - more than colors, composition and such in this case. In the end - all I did with this image - was cropping - NO OTHER WORK - was done on the P C. |
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Norm Dunne Lover of Old Master Painters and Paintings. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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F1 Camel
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What you say, Eric, is good for Negative Film. Slide Film is not quite so lenient re - exposures - at least that was my findings. Digi cams are like like slide film in that there is no INTERNEGATIVE between the original scene and the final result. As a result, more care has to be taken with digi's - I feel - in this regard.
I did many years with film cams and lens and hand meters and all. When digi's came out, I felt like I wanted to downsize. Also, digi's are like the old, large format film cams 5 X 4 inches and above, where we can work with one image at a time and not a whole roll as in 35 and 120 cams. One point about large format film cams - I love - is the swing and tilt ability to keep lines straight. Also, digi's give one more than one opportunity to get a correct exposure. Film cams were somewhat restricted that way. __________________
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__________________
Norm Dunne Lover of Old Master Painters and Paintings. |
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