Quote:
Originally Posted by badpickev
i know its really hard for some people to understand. i can not tell you the times i here from non fuji folk stating the added dr is a myth because they never see it. yet when i post a dusk or night shot i get asked if its hdr.
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I think part of the problem is that people think that because even most common DSLR's have a dynamic range usually bigger than the printer or screen, that the Fuji's DR is wasted. While the first part is usually true, the conclusion doesn't follow.
The issue is not to get the RAW DR and print it or see it on screen (it won't), but that the Fuji algorithms (for jpegs) will cram the data into the visible space for prints, and the screen, giving a very rich jpeg that is - if required- very malleable for contrast/level/etc tweaks. And for RAW- that you have a lot of data to begin with and get the options if you zone/ burn/dodge (digitally of course) to get those areas you want, with more leeway of what you wanted, if you are into RAW shooting. YOu can even do HDR out of a single RAW with a quality that other camera's can't (from a single raw).
This is what a lot fail to understand. Likewise a lot in the Fuji camp think their camera should always be set to the highest DR, and that is not the case. It depends on the photograph and what someone wants to communicate with the photograph. And DR is not the same as say Tonal range (for ex- I found the tonal range of the e-410 to be pretty decent for skin, but it certainly doesn't have the DR of the Fuji).
That's why Fuji very wisely allows the photographer to control how much of the DR mix is wanted. I wish the F700/F710 had those controls.
- Raist